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Valve mod - pcp pistol

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    Posted: Yesterday at 11:39am
very cool
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Pauly5 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Sep 2024 at 11:19pm
Barrel is around 300 mm, so not a small pistol.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RangerPete Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Sep 2024 at 10:19pm
So how long are you planning on making the barrel?
Walk quietly, but carry a big stick.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Pauly5 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Sep 2024 at 9:50pm
Slowly doing stuff.

NZ Post has botched up Nunga's foundry delivery, so valve on hold. I bought a piece of 3.9 mm piano wire today. Pretty hard, and hopefully harden up, but I might try that for the valve stem.

I also decided to use the .25 cal FX barrel I had. It was off a Bobcat. I cut it down and reduced the breech end to fit into what will be the breech block for this build. Fits nice and snug with no movement.

FX only rifled the last 2 or 3 inches of these barrels and you can see that they make the muzzle smaller diameter to do this, then thread on a piece to match. You can see the marks on the outside where they "squeeze" the rifling in giving it a "smooth" twist.




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RangerPete Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Sep 2024 at 11:08pm
Good luck with that 😂
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Pauly5 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Sep 2024 at 10:06pm
Well I tried cutting one of my donor screw drivers and it was hard. The hacksaw had trouble biting into it. It made a small nick, so I just put it in the vice and it snapped on the nick.

Doing pest control I was always up in ceilings and sparkies often forget stuff and they do like to have expensive screwdrivers which are decenyly hardened. So I have a couple I can wreck. So this will be my valve stem.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Pauly5 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Sep 2024 at 8:26pm
So should I remake that valve seat in brass and the harder material for the moving part of the valve. Poppet valve?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote BC_Clark Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Sep 2024 at 7:50pm
Originally posted by nunga nunga wrote:

Thats because 385 brass as a lot of lead (around 3%) compared with other types of brass which makes it very good for machining it is also know as free machining brass. But it is a lot softer as well so i dont know how it would handle been used on HPA valve seat.

If you have had good results using it BC_Clark then i would be happy to mix up a batch for you paul, like i said i have everything here and i will be smelting other stuff this weekend anyway.


Some of my most powerful and highly stressed valves have been with 385 brass seats
so I can say that normal HPA usage is no challenge.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote nunga Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Sep 2024 at 5:49pm
Thats because 385 brass as a lot of lead (around 3%) compared with other types of brass which makes it very good for machining it is also know as free machining brass. But it is a lot softer as well so i dont know how it would handle been used on HPA valve seat.

If you have had good results using it BC_Clark then i would be happy to mix up a batch for you paul, like i said i have everything here and i will be smelting other stuff this weekend anyway.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BC_Clark Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Sep 2024 at 5:20pm
A thing about dissimilar metal corrosion is it depends on the ratio of surface areas of each metal.
A stainless seat in an aluminium airgun could have no issues but an aluminium seat in a stainless airgun
would be at high risk.
Look up the galvanic series and make sure that the most reactive metal makes up the vast majority.

I find 385 brass to be very good for seats. It machines and polishes well. Bronzes can be more tricky.


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