Problems with my scope....

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Topic: Problems with my scope....
Posted: 07 May 2023 at 9:33am

Thanks again everyone! Excellent food for thoughts!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eq7jVyBfFqE
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jwabfrog

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Posted: 07 May 2023 at 5:59am

Ha ha I guess so! Older style torque wrenches use the same visual bend-ometer so maybe not completely without merit

kruzaroad

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Posted: 07 May 2023 at 3:59am

That looks as dodgy as hell.
Whats it rely on flex in the steel?

jwabfrog

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Posted: 07 May 2023 at 3:15am

https://www.torpedo7.co.nz/products/TPTOWNNTWXXXXX/title/torque-wrench-with-bits?gclsrc=aw.ds&&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIyYbujYnf_gIVzXZ9Ch3Tdg_FEAQYBSABEgK5QvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Pauly5

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Posted: 07 May 2023 at 3:07am

I bought a torque wrench set from a bike shop for about $90 a couple years ago, so Torpedo7 or similar might have something.

It's surprising how little torque you really need, and I have been guilty of overtightening scope rings in the past,

KiwiTR6

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Posted: 07 May 2023 at 2:35am

These guys have a great range of torque screwdrivers.

https://nz.element14.com/w/search/prl/results?st=torque+screwdriver

I bought the Duratool with a 1-6 Nm range from them along with quite a bit of stuff over the last couple of years including airgun related items (torque screwdriver, duct seal and the latest, a dB meter). Freight on orders over $100 is free but most comes out of Aus and takes about a week although the duct seal came from the UK and was only a few days. Their range of products is huge and includes inexpensive through to top of the line brands. I particularly like their Extech products.

I set my ring screws to 2Nm in steps, finger tight with the appropriate tool a little at a time to hold the reticle level, then 1.5Nm and then 2Nm with the torque screwdriver (you will probably need to buy a set of small bits to suit). I also apply low strength Loctite 222 to the threads and a small dab of E6000 glue to the dovetail at the clamp points (I was using Araldite but it's too hard to remove from the grooves) as the locking screws never line up the the barrel stop holes or they're too small.

If the rings have single sided tape I remove it. In its place I use a 8-10mm strip of self-amalgamating tape laid at right angles to the scope top and bottom. It's not the easiest to keep in place as it doesn't adhere to anything but itself and it will squeeze out the side of the rings at points, but being silicon I figure it's good for several reasons. Firstly, it will take up any slight variance in the rings, second it provides a small amount of shock absorption, thirdly it grips the scope and ring surfaces better than the self adhesive tape, fourth it doesn't mark the scope and is easily removable (and reusable) and lastly it's cheap - on special for $5 at Supercheap.

https://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/p/calibre-calibre-tape-it-self-fusing-silicone-tape---black-3m-x-25mm/395855.html across

Edited by KiwiTR6 - 07 May 2023 at 3:05am

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Myson

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Posted: 06 May 2023 at 1:00am

Many thanks Kruza and Mark - great feedback!

I'm now waiting on the Dealer to discover if a replacement scope is granted by Hawke - or if I have to buy another scope (new or 2nd-hand).

Whatever, when I fit a new scope, I'll be taking your advice above! Smile

Onwards and Upwards! I really appreciate all the good input from everyone above... great to have so many experienced airgunners helping me!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eq7jVyBfFqE
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Posted: 05 May 2023 at 12:38pm

22 - 25 inch pounds for rings (ZeroTech scope manual)

SportsMatch so you have chosen a good brand and you will get a great grip without over tightening.

If separate rings then I push them together and tighten initially and check alignment with finger as a starting point. If there is any discrepancy then several additional steps are required before the scope should be installed.

Misalignment will easily cause indent marks on the tube.

Many rings come with single sided tape inside which can help avoid any issues.

Should they not replace yours and you can retrieve the scope I would like to have a look, several manufacturers are close to no questions asked. i will review Hawke installation instructions but no replacement will not reflect well on Hawke in my opinion.

Has anyone found an economical torque driver to recommend, tend to be a couple of hundred dollars when I was looking.

Short end of hex key with thumb and forefinger only should be sufficient for the top half shells.

Following is from zero tech.com.au

Once you are satisfied the base(s) is correctly fitted to the receiver of your firearm, proceed to fit the rings to the base(s) and ensure the ring clamps are tightened to the recommended torque settings as specified by the manufacturer.
With the ring tops removed, place the scope in the ring bases and gently slide the scope back and fourth in the ring bases to ensure the scope slides freely. If the scope does not slide freely, lapping of the rings may be necessary to avoid damage

ZEROTECH - INSTRUCTION MANUAL 9

to the scope maintube. ZeroTech always recommends the use of high quality rings

and bases to ensure the best possible fitting of your scope.

Avoid mounting the scope with the rings contacting the junction of the maintube/erector
housing, magnification ring/maintube junction or the objective/maintube junction.
It is essential to confirm that no part of the scope is contacting the barrel or receiver
when the scope is mounted in the rings.
Once you have confirmed the fit of the scope in the ring bases, fit the ring tops and
tighten the ring top bolts to between 22–25 in lbs or 2.5–2.8NM.
ZeroTech highly recommends the use of a scope level (bubble level) fitted to the
rings or the scope maintube to ensure the reticle can consistently be aligned with the fall of gravity every time a shot is fired. This is particularly important for precision shooting applications.

*If your level mounts to the maintube of the scope, follow the same guidelines as observed for scope ring fitting to ensure the level does not damage the maintube of your scope.

10 ZEROTECH - INSTRUCTION MANUAL

Edited by mercs - 05 May 2023 at 12:40pm

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Posted: 05 May 2023 at 10:06am

OK. I've never used a tourqe meter on any of mine. And I have no dought they are way over the specs. Having said that it is about a 10 to 15min process to tighten them as I bring them in evenly, a small amount per Allen screw.
Theory would have it that a strait edge or vernier would show any compression of the outside of the tube.
My thinking from your description was that one of the springs involved in adjusting the elevation or windage,that hold the lens/crosshairs in place had stuffed out. That causes the hairs to move as they no longer hold tension and also affects how it feels adjusting them. ( one of my scopes up Hastings I'm sure I killed this way over tightening the windage on a blowy day to compensate )
I would check the tube to see if its compressed slightly around the mount area.
A line could be from rotating the scope while adjusting it to sit vertical from a sharp edge on the mount or just being a tad tight when rotating it level prior to the final tweeting up.

https://life.hawkeoptics.com/riflescope-alignment/

Edited by kruzaroad - 05 May 2023 at 10:22am

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Posted: 05 May 2023 at 9:31am

Hi Kruza,

The Dealer thinks I've over-tightened the Sportsmatch Rings - those eight small screws that hold the tops of the rings on to the 1" tube, either side of the turrets.

He thinks the tube was dented inwards and that compression buggered the internals, causing the symptoms listed above.

You can certainly see a small line on the side of the tube where the rings were.... and being aluminium, I guess it dents easily???

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eq7jVyBfFqE
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Posted: 05 May 2023 at 9:16am

So are you thinking that you've overtightened the turret adjustment dials and compressed the springs or as you mentioned Allen keys that you've tightened the mounts to tight and damaged the tube.
I was assuming you had over compressed the internal springs.

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Posted: 05 May 2023 at 8:52am

Thanks again Gentlemen - great to have your thoughts on this.

To answer some questions above:

The Hawke's have a Lifetime Guarantee but only for faulty parts. If I have over-tightened the scope, warranty lost I'm afraid (according to the Dealer).

The Dealer is sending pictures of my scope back to Hawke but he thinks they'll refuse to replace it because he can see some tube marks that imply over-tightening. Unhappy

And thanks Jwabfrog - do you know if your NS scope is Springer-rated over 12 ft/lbs?

I've not had this problem before (60 years of shooting!) so I'm a bit lost as to how I might have over-tightened the tube? I don't have a torque screwdriver - and they're rather expensive for the amount of use I'd have for it (!) - so I usually use common sense and instinctive feel with the Allen Keys!

Guess I got it wrong this time? Must be getting old?!

Nah!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eq7jVyBfFqE
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Posted: 05 May 2023 at 7:06am

Hawke are usually excellent. I’d send it back and ask them to try find out what the problem is.
Jawbfrog, I’m not sure if the night eater is springer rated?

Walk quietly, but carry a big stick.

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Posted: 05 May 2023 at 6:36am

Hi Myson, I have a Nikko Stirling Nigheater 6-24x44 if that's of interest to you? Full mil dot reticle. Side focus. PM if interested and I can send you pics

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