Thought I should post some basic details of my pellet trap after checking its condition following some alignment shots with my new Wildcat .25 cal tonight.

It's based on the standard duct sealant design you'll find on Youtube with a few differences. 

The sides are sawn pine with 12mm ply front and rear panels.  Inside the rear panel is some 3mm alloy checker plate (as a backstop) with strips of duct seal about 25-30mm thick pressed onto it.

On the front of that I fastened with small nails into the timber sides (staples just bent over) thin Kevlar fabric that I'd purchased from AliExpress, folded into about 10 layers and sewn together with the wife's sewing machine.

To hold the targets I use some scrap Coreflute cut to size and small blobs of Blutack.

The Kevlar is pretty mangled now but even though it's mono-directional it still stops most pellets dead at the 10m range I use it 99% of the time.  I thought they would eventually make their way through the mangled fibres into the sealant and I'm sure many have, but most seem to either fall back or get hung up.  Ive attached some photos of the JSB Heavies I used tonight, the really mangled one was caught in the Kevlar fibres and the other two were one on top of the other deep in the sealant.

Anyway, it works better than I expected so I thought it might be of interest.  If anyone wants a full build guide let me know -  I'm happy to add a more detailed description to this post.

Declan wrote: Nice work. What are the clips you’ve used to hold the paper target in place please?

I may be wrong but they look line mouse traps??

Great idea if they are!

Declan wrote: Nice work. What are the clips you’ve used to hold the paper target in place please?

The metalwork from a couple of cheap mouse traps repurposed!  When I get around to filling all of the collateral pellet damage and repainting the front panel I'll relocate one of them to the top center position and remove the second - two is overkill :)  I used these as they were cheap and I figured they would be less likely to cause ricochet issues than say a pressed steel paper clamp.

The Coreflute sits in a slotted piece of timber at the base.

RangerPete wrote: Interesting pellet trap Kiwi, but what I’d really like to see is pics of ur ew Wildcat .25!!!!

Just for you Pete!

Currently fitted with a DonnyFL suppressor and my Vixen 4-16x44 scope.  I have a Pard DS35 for it as well but I'll start with the standard optics.

The WC looks great. I got a couple of printed mags from Orion Iguana for mine, and they are really good mags if you are ever after more.

https://www.dlhdev.com/

He reckons the FX mags damage slugs / pellets causing accuracy issues and these mags are the solution.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x_U-133bMTg&t=632s

Hi Paul.

Yes, damage from the challenge gun and a few others during initial scope alignment.  I really should be doing that outdoors with a big backing board but that's too much hassle.

I also have a couple of the Orion Iguana mags in bright green so there's no mistaking which gun they're for!  Very similar to the STUD mag and the same price.

Most mags seem to be spring loaded because it is easier than making a mechanism in the breech to revolve a mag. The earlier Wildcats used this type of system.

My Evanix AR6 has a rotary mag just like a revolver.  Pressurised air pushes the pellet out of the mag and through the barrel with some minor leakage from each face of the mag where it fits into the breach.  The mag rotates to the next chamber when the hammer is cocked (if all works as it should!).

Part #3 in the parts diagram below.

The probe stops mag from rotating. Then as the bolt is drawn back the spring is allowed to rotate the next pellet into place. This is the point skirt damage can occur as it is the pellet that stops the barrel in the mag from rotating further. These kind of spring loaded mags are common. Benjamin Marauder style, FX to name a couple.

Air Arms and earlier FX, Weihrauch etc have a system where a small lever rotates the mag into place, and so no damage occurs. Tghen there are spring loaded ones like Brocock that don't damage the pellets because they have a locating mechanism to stop the pellet in the right position.

Most of these can still be double loaded. Pretty sure Weihrauch have an anti double load mechanism though. I'm talking the HW100 series of Weihrauch,

OK, here are the construction details of my trap as promised (apologies for the very average draughting work).

Materials List (a lot of this I had laying around the shed)

100x25 sawn pine

12mm plywood

3.0mm aluminium checker plate

C/sunk wood screws

Panduit DS5 duct sealing compound - 2 x 5lb blocks (purchased from Element14 for around $50 each with free freight)

Kevlar sheet (purchased from Aliexpress for around $50 delivered)

The box was constructed from pine sides with ply front and rear panels.  There is a large cutout in the front panel and two small holes in the top of the rear panel to enable me to hang it on the wall.  All of this was screwed together with c/sunk screws, the front panel then being removed for the next step.

The next moves were to cut a couple of scrap pieces of checker plate to size and fasten them in place with tacks placed around the perimeter and then to open the two boxes of duct sealant and split them along their length.  The four pieces were then laid onto the alloy and firmly pressed down into place working the edges to flatten the material as best I could.  The stuff is very tacky so bonds strongly to the alloy.

The final layer is Kevlar (aramid fibre) sheet.  I thought I'd ordered woven fabric but upon arrival I found that it was mono-directional supported on a plastic backing sheet.  This resulted in some discussion with the supplier and a refund, so I don't have the direct link.  However, I decided to use it anyway and folded the sheet into multiple layers which I then used the wife's sewing machine to secure together.  This has actually worked very well so in good conscience I ended up contacting the store and paying them back.

From memory the sheet was 0.5 x 2.0m, so I ended up with about 6 layers.  Initially I tried stapling it to the timber sides, but the staples just bent over, they couldn't puncture it.  So a few more tacks were used to keep it in place.

After this the front panel was refitted a bottom slot mount for the Coreflute target backing to sit in was fabricated from a couple of pieces of thin timber and a couple of mouse trap mechanisms were repurposed at each top corner.  In hindsight a single trap at the top centre position would be quite adequate and probably easier to use.

While I was at it I made up a couple of pivoting side plates that I can secure to some bolts on each side so the trap can be used free-standing with adjustment if the surface isn't level.  I haven't bothered with dimensions for these as they're not really necessary but can be easily made using the images below as a guide.  I actually fitted the bolts for these before I installed the duct sealant.

The whole lot was then painted with a couple of coats of my favourite PA10 paint (grey on this occasion) and it was ready for use

I currently have it mounted on the wall of my car shed and it's performed very well so far, a huge advance on the rag-filled cardboard box that preceded it!  However, with 10lb of sealant it's no lightweight to lift into position or move. 

Overall, it was certainly worth the effort and the cost of the materials that I had to buy in to make it.  Hopefully others might feel the same and build something similar for themselves.