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laminate stock

Printed From: Kiwi Airgunners
Category: Technical
Forum Name: Pauly's Technical Area
Forum Description: Technical information, Modifications and DIY projects are all in here
URL: www.kiwiairgunners.co.nz/forum_posts.asp?TID=114
Printed Date: 28 Apr 2024 at 3:20pm
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Topic: laminate stock
Posted By: (pink)MIST
Subject: laminate stock
Date Posted: 14 Apr 2014 at 12:01am
Okay, got bored again, which is easy for me as I dont like to sit still :)
Had a google search for custom laminate tx stocks, and found a few, but one stood out and just said "make me"
Going to run through this step by step, as I get further through it, so to start it off heres what i found and am going to make - altered slightly to suit needs I thought needed changing.



First step was easy, get a whole lot of ply, and laminate it together.
I used aliphatic resin to glue it all up, and had it sitting under 2 1/2 ton of pressure for 8 hours.
Then I marked out a template to the shape and size i wanted, marked the laminated ply (I got two stocks marked out off a 300x850 slab) and rough cut it out on a bandsaw
you can see the cardboard template just behind the two stock blanks


Starting with a 30mm drill through the thumbhole area, then used a plane to rough shape the comb and butt of the stock, and a 80grit flap wheel to start shaping the thumbhole/grip area.
This small bit of work took just over 2 hours, and thats only one side. This can be done faster using an anglegrinder with sanding discs, but I feel theres more control this way. I'll use an anglegrinder later on.






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NZAFTA President
1st place HP springer - 2014 WFTF Worlds
1st place HP springer - 2014 Nats

AA TX200 MK111, Optisan Viper 8-32x60 JSB. VMach, TbT, maestro design.



Replies:
Posted By: (pink)MIST
Date Posted: 16 Apr 2014 at 12:43am
Another couple hours in the garage, with a half round file, some drum sanders, a plane, and the flap wheel.
Have worked the grip, thumbhole and butt a bit more, giving better shape to it all, and have started the RH side finger grooves.
Started marking the trigger area with the spade bit in the drill, this will help to keep the trigger hole straighter and a more true shape, and will also help when putting bodyline down each side providing a reference point.
The lines are starting to show up better now, so also trying to make sure they go where I want them as well :)





Also got this shot, using the lighting to show off the shape better. You can see where the trigger will be, and where the body line will shape to.
The Body line will be cut using a router and fence, with the top following the top of the stock, and the bottom following the shape of the bottom of the stock.





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NZAFTA President
1st place HP springer - 2014 WFTF Worlds
1st place HP springer - 2014 Nats

AA TX200 MK111, Optisan Viper 8-32x60 JSB. VMach, TbT, maestro design.


Posted By: (pink)MIST
Date Posted: 18 Apr 2014 at 12:20am
3 more hours tonight, really taking shape at a good pace now. Will do pics tomorrow, but have started on the lh side of the butt now, rh side is ready to be sanded in various grades of paper, but will leave that until both sides are ready.
At this rate I'll be inletting it by next weekend!

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NZAFTA President
1st place HP springer - 2014 WFTF Worlds
1st place HP springer - 2014 Nats

AA TX200 MK111, Optisan Viper 8-32x60 JSB. VMach, TbT, maestro design.


Posted By: (pink)MIST
Date Posted: 19 Apr 2014 at 10:14pm
last night saw the trigger hole get cut through, the tx blade should sit about 1-1.5mm off the base of the now to be trigger guard



with the trigger hole cut, i could focus on getting the right amount of room in front of the grip for a natural hold, so a bit of time was spent in that area with 80-150 grit paper
Id already marked a centreline down the top of the stock, which i use to help shape the lh side of the butt to bring my eye into alignment with the centreof the bore,all things going to plan that should be the line the scope sits on, so half the work of aligning the scope to the eye is done.



a fair bit of time spent roughing this into shape using a block plane, anda half round rasp.
once it was roughed into this shape, i fitted a flap wheel to the drill, and gradually worked it more to what i wanted,including the bottom of the fore-end, which saw the use of the plane, half round rasp,some drum sanding attatchments, and finally rough sanding with 80grit.
I,ll leave this now for a day or so, in a cabinet with a dehumidifier going, just  to make sure its not getting moisture in the timber










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NZAFTA President
1st place HP springer - 2014 WFTF Worlds
1st place HP springer - 2014 Nats

AA TX200 MK111, Optisan Viper 8-32x60 JSB. VMach, TbT, maestro design.


Posted By: (pink)MIST
Date Posted: 24 Apr 2014 at 11:08pm
Ok bit of an update on this, getting minimal time this week but still making forward progress.
Started on the inletting, most people building a stock do this first as it's a lot easier, I do it closer to finished so I can line the action up where I want it (one of the issues with a generic stock for me is to line the action and scope up to me, I've got to hold it off square, uncomfortable by the slightest amount, so why not angle the action in the stock to suit myself?)
About 2 hours into it, and about 80% done.
Note to anyone doing this is (a) take your time setting up router with the guide, work on the opposite side to where the guide is as this stops the router "running off" out the side if your stock.
And note (b) either remove or cover anything in the garage/work area you don't want covered in dust and shavings :)
Tomorrow's job will be cleaning the 2 Holden's :)

Will get progress pics up tomorrow

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NZAFTA President
1st place HP springer - 2014 WFTF Worlds
1st place HP springer - 2014 Nats

AA TX200 MK111, Optisan Viper 8-32x60 JSB. VMach, TbT, maestro design.


Posted By: nunga
Date Posted: 25 Apr 2014 at 8:24am
Originally posted by (pink)MIST (pink)MIST wrote:


And note (b) either remove or cover anything in the garage/work area you don't want covered in dust and shavings :)
Tomorrow's job will be cleaning the 2 Holden's :)
 


they are only Holden's mate dont worry! ops thats right you are picking me up on Sunday... i ment yea clean them bro nice cars!


Posted By: (pink)MIST
Date Posted: 26 Apr 2014 at 12:51pm
cleaned the cars ,you better not get mud in or on them :)

heres some pics from inletting the stock


Transfered the measurement across from the tx, and marked the lines.
Started in the midlle, doing the deepest cuts first and working my way outwards. 
First cuts are done with a straight blade cutter in a plunge router, taking about 3-5mm in depth each pass.

Next lot of cuts was done with a 15mm round cutter,this helps to get the cylindrical shape for the action to bed against.


back to the straight blade,to cut down for the trigger well




and to cut the underside of the forend for the underlever cocking arm to move through


Thats inletting made to look easy :)
Whole lot (incl inletting) has taken approx 6hours so far,now i'll get in there with 320grit paper and make it look nice, theres another 2 hours easy


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NZAFTA President
1st place HP springer - 2014 WFTF Worlds
1st place HP springer - 2014 Nats

AA TX200 MK111, Optisan Viper 8-32x60 JSB. VMach, TbT, maestro design.


Posted By: mmamonster
Date Posted: 28 Apr 2014 at 9:38am
Nice work.

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killing is as easy as breathing


Posted By: (pink)MIST
Date Posted: 28 Apr 2014 at 2:44pm
Thanks mmamonster, but it's gonna look better soon :)
Tonight has workshop time pencilled in, and it's about 1 1/2 hours away from the first test fit :)

Once test fitting starts it's generally inside a week till it's all together finally, so fingers crossed tonight goes well :)

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NZAFTA President
1st place HP springer - 2014 WFTF Worlds
1st place HP springer - 2014 Nats

AA TX200 MK111, Optisan Viper 8-32x60 JSB. VMach, TbT, maestro design.


Posted By: Pauly5
Date Posted: 29 Apr 2014 at 9:14pm
Just had a good look at the thread, and that looks great! I must admit my first thoughts went out to the Holdens. Wink

How will the weight of the ply stock compare to the original stock? What grade of ply did you use?



Posted By: (pink)MIST
Date Posted: 29 Apr 2014 at 10:15pm
Slightly heavier than the original, but only by 5-600 grams.
Marine grade pine, and marine grade rimu alternated , with a total cost of $24 incl aliphatic resin to glue it all up :)

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NZAFTA President
1st place HP springer - 2014 WFTF Worlds
1st place HP springer - 2014 Nats

AA TX200 MK111, Optisan Viper 8-32x60 JSB. VMach, TbT, maestro design.


Posted By: (pink)MIST
Date Posted: 02 May 2014 at 12:15am
got the inletting as close as I wanted to go with a router, so it was test fit time, gotta say, for a test fit to see how much i needed to sand it out, im pretty happy:)
http://s1291.photobucket.com/user/brettnixon/media/IMG_1769_zps7e6633a5.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">

2 more cuts to make, the recess for the breech loading area, and the recess for the cocking lever release, 10mins tops. First marked it out, then used the router to clear the bulk of it, followed by the dremel for the last tidy up.
A final depth check revealed I needed 3.8mm more cleared out through the inlet, so using the half round bit and with the plunge depth set, the router cleared out the last of the excess wood.
Sat the action back in, looking good, marked and drilled the front stock screw holes,countersunk them and checked for alignment. 
Still all good, phew, wouldnt want to be this far in and f%$k it up :)
Put the action back in again (i really enjoy this , half a mm at a time with the 120grit paper and recheck..... ) now its within 0.25 of a mm so im going to stop sanding , the main stock bolt will have plenty of pull to settle it down the last bit.
final test fit for the night, heres the pics.
http://s1291.photobucket.com/user/brettnixon/media/IMG_1772_zps6aa45537.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">

http://s1291.photobucket.com/user/brettnixon/media/IMG_1770_zps16547ecc.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">

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http://s1291.photobucket.com/user/brettnixon/media/IMG_1771_zpse75468bc.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">

now comes the easy bit, lots of sanding by hand, through various grades of paper, down to 320 grit, but once thats done itll get the colour put on, and the 2pot clear coat :)
more pics to follow after a few hours of sanding


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NZAFTA President
1st place HP springer - 2014 WFTF Worlds
1st place HP springer - 2014 Nats

AA TX200 MK111, Optisan Viper 8-32x60 JSB. VMach, TbT, maestro design.


Posted By: (pink)MIST
Date Posted: 03 May 2014 at 8:50pm
while all the sanding is going on, ive also got to make its twin, with an FWB sport 124 mounted inside it for a wellington shooter. This will be used in their PRO650 class, which is limited in scope power, and build cost (sometimes its who you know :) )
heres todays hour and 1/2, the bulk of the inletting.


altogether at the start, beautiful rifle , sub 12ft/lbs and very accurate with little recoil
http://s1291.photobucket.com/user/brettnixon/media/fwb1_zpsd4016385.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">

Action out
http://s1291.photobucket.com/user/brettnixon/media/fwb2_zps2911d61f.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">

Inletting and trigger hole marked
http://s1291.photobucket.com/user/brettnixon/media/fwb4_zps2dc83248.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">
http://s1291.photobucket.com/user/brettnixon/media/fwb3_zps67fa6848.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">

Plunge Router makes inletting easy and quick
http://s1291.photobucket.com/user/brettnixon/media/fwb6_zps55abedd8.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">
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http://s1291.photobucket.com/user/brettnixon/media/fwb7_zps4332254b.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">

More people should have a go at this, its alot easier than youd think, as long as you actually think about it first. Easy to take wood away , not so easy to put it back :)




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NZAFTA President
1st place HP springer - 2014 WFTF Worlds
1st place HP springer - 2014 Nats

AA TX200 MK111, Optisan Viper 8-32x60 JSB. VMach, TbT, maestro design.


Posted By: SteveH
Date Posted: 05 May 2014 at 7:33pm
They are looking pretty awesome, now if I just had all the tools and a garage to work in...


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HARC President 2014/5



Posted By: (pink)MIST
Date Posted: 05 May 2014 at 8:12pm
Hi Steve
Tools aren't hat to come by, and the first few I did (was living somewhere else) I did sitting in the deck with a couple beers every night.
It was almost easier doing that as there was no garage to clean up :)

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NZAFTA President
1st place HP springer - 2014 WFTF Worlds
1st place HP springer - 2014 Nats

AA TX200 MK111, Optisan Viper 8-32x60 JSB. VMach, TbT, maestro design.


Posted By: Pauly5
Date Posted: 05 May 2014 at 8:57pm
I had a go making a stock and I hung old sheets from the garage roof around me when routering and sanding. Wink 
It meant I was able to collect the maximum amount of wood dust in every orifice left open. 


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Posted By: (pink)MIST
Date Posted: 06 May 2014 at 12:23pm
Mixed up some whitewash and dark stain last night, had the colour looking pretty spot on in the tin..... But when it touched the wood it turned into the foulest most insipid looking colour I've ever seen - definitely unacceptable.

Slight change of plan in the colour dept, and it's now coated in a Mediterranean walnut stain, that has been wiped and rubbed back to an almost dirty finish. Getting the stain on and off quick, several times, will help to bring the darker colours up, and leave the laminate lines visible, more so once the lacquer is applied.

Now for a trip up to drury to see the father-in-law and do the 2pot clear

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NZAFTA President
1st place HP springer - 2014 WFTF Worlds
1st place HP springer - 2014 Nats

AA TX200 MK111, Optisan Viper 8-32x60 JSB. VMach, TbT, maestro design.


Posted By: (pink)MIST
Date Posted: 06 May 2014 at 12:28pm
http://s1291.photobucket.com/user/brettnixon/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpscc491971.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">

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NZAFTA President
1st place HP springer - 2014 WFTF Worlds
1st place HP springer - 2014 Nats

AA TX200 MK111, Optisan Viper 8-32x60 JSB. VMach, TbT, maestro design.


Posted By: (pink)MIST
Date Posted: 07 May 2014 at 11:49pm
going to put a few coats of a 10% gloss lacquer on tomorrow, hoping to give it a satin/semi gloss appearance, will post pics once its dried up and had a polish.
Fingers crossed I like the look, otherwise Ive got some more sanding to look forward to :)

Regardless I'll fit the action in and get some glamour shots, and weather permitting I'll knock some targets with it as well, and get a feel for any changes that need to happen. Fingers crossed on that as well, with all the trialling I did along the way I'm hoping the shape, weight and balance should be pretty much spot on.


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NZAFTA President
1st place HP springer - 2014 WFTF Worlds
1st place HP springer - 2014 Nats

AA TX200 MK111, Optisan Viper 8-32x60 JSB. VMach, TbT, maestro design.


Posted By: (pink)MIST
Date Posted: 09 May 2014 at 10:38pm
Well the undercoat went on on thursday, and the 10% was done today, looked stunning when it was wet, maybe a bit more gloss wouldve been nice..... now Im just waiting till its hardened and i'll give it a polish to see whats hiding  :) will post pics of that after its polished and has the action installed (early next week)
Till then I have to find ways to keep myself from doing that too early, so ive been back on the "twin" stock for the FWB.
further shaping to the rear and now it has most of what will be a rollover comb :)
(and I have two holdens to clean again!)


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NZAFTA President
1st place HP springer - 2014 WFTF Worlds
1st place HP springer - 2014 Nats

AA TX200 MK111, Optisan Viper 8-32x60 JSB. VMach, TbT, maestro design.


Posted By: (pink)MIST
Date Posted: 09 May 2014 at 10:40pm
http://s1291.photobucket.com/user/brettnixon/media/IMG_1864_zps46f61260.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">

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NZAFTA President
1st place HP springer - 2014 WFTF Worlds
1st place HP springer - 2014 Nats

AA TX200 MK111, Optisan Viper 8-32x60 JSB. VMach, TbT, maestro design.


Posted By: (pink)MIST
Date Posted: 10 May 2014 at 10:50pm
colour not first choice or original plan ( and may get changed yet as well) also found an issue with the alternating grain direction, means this one has some "pitting" appearance to it, but has also given me an idea of how to finish the next one differently.
gave it a light polish before installing the action, man has this thing got some weight to it, but it feels right, and it sits nicely with good balance, now jjust to get out and see how this stock shoots........next sunday's job.
http://s1291.photobucket.com/user/brettnixon/media/6E755F27-9C79-45DF-BF7B-6F6EBA5979E9_zpskryg9rll.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">

http://s1291.photobucket.com/user/brettnixon/media/AD8C3B04-A13C-44A1-877A-254613FE282F_zps8sxltbmx.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">


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NZAFTA President
1st place HP springer - 2014 WFTF Worlds
1st place HP springer - 2014 Nats

AA TX200 MK111, Optisan Viper 8-32x60 JSB. VMach, TbT, maestro design.


Posted By: (pink)MIST
Date Posted: 12 May 2014 at 9:06pm
Managed to get a couple of shots with the new stock on late Sunday afternoon , the little extra weight she's carrying now makes it sit a lot more solidly in the hold, and has reduced what minimal recoil there was to almost zero.
Quite a "dead" feel to it through the shot cycle, feels nice.
Problem though was the shots seemed to be straying a little, but I found an easy remedy - put the main stock to action bolt in :)
Bit of an amateur mistake leaving that one out, but the impressive part is how much accuracy trained, given it literally wasn't bolted into the action (it is a snug fit tho)
Makes other peoples complaints of broken front stock mounts seem insignificant :)
Now to get some daylight to try it all bolted in :)

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NZAFTA President
1st place HP springer - 2014 WFTF Worlds
1st place HP springer - 2014 Nats

AA TX200 MK111, Optisan Viper 8-32x60 JSB. VMach, TbT, maestro design.


Posted By: (pink)MIST
Date Posted: 15 May 2014 at 10:15pm
The finish just wasn't right, so I opted to get the sandpapers back out and inhale copious more amounts of wood dust :)
I also figured while I'm covered in dust I might as well make some more and do a rollover comb , why not, the dust smells good :)
Lots of sanding followed those decisions..... And I got to a point where I need to start getting the grains to all sit down and start showing themselves off properly, so I coated it generously in mirotone finishing oil, and started wet sanding it.
I think the laminates are starting to show off better now, this is after 1 coat, a wet sand (320grit) , and another coat. It'll only get more defined from here, but this'll give you an idea :)

http://s1291.photobucket.com/user/brettnixon/media/3A9B557E-F836-4F47-B5BE-BD4CD2BAF68D_zpsbev7c0mu.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">

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NZAFTA President
1st place HP springer - 2014 WFTF Worlds
1st place HP springer - 2014 Nats

AA TX200 MK111, Optisan Viper 8-32x60 JSB. VMach, TbT, maestro design.


Posted By: (pink)MIST
Date Posted: 15 May 2014 at 10:37pm
This should define the lines better, and the mirotone oil can have other finishes on top of it (stains, lacquer, etc)
Will see how it tones up, but may introduce a light walnut or rimu stain to help it if it looks like it's not getting dark enough.

Then it's getting 2pot, and I won't be in a hurry to sand that back afterwards :)

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NZAFTA President
1st place HP springer - 2014 WFTF Worlds
1st place HP springer - 2014 Nats

AA TX200 MK111, Optisan Viper 8-32x60 JSB. VMach, TbT, maestro design.


Posted By: Davey
Date Posted: 16 May 2014 at 7:42am
WOW!
 
I wouldn't stain that at all, just keep oilsanding!
 
That contrast looks insane.


Posted By: nunga
Date Posted: 16 May 2014 at 9:24am
as above :)


Posted By: Pauly5
Date Posted: 16 May 2014 at 8:24pm
I like it like that too. The finish seems to bring out a depth in the layers.

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Posted By: (pink)MIST
Date Posted: 17 May 2014 at 10:55pm
Yup , I'm thinking the same thing, not quite in the colour range I was originally intending but sometimes plans are made on the fly :)
Anyway , 4 coats of mirotone, drying time and 400grit between each coat. Final oil went in tonight and was buffed in with 900 grit. Then rubbed smooth with a cotton material. Ready to get sprayed, just sitting in the HWC now drying up.

Drying

http://s1291.photobucket.com/user/brettnixon/media/BB66274B-02D5-48B7-A7CA-0E51F725DEB9_zpsuvc8g9ib.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">

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Wet

http://s1291.photobucket.com/user/brettnixon/media/A7DBAEBA-1F38-418D-BC70-9D3435677D7A_zpsbtlaeype.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">


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NZAFTA President
1st place HP springer - 2014 WFTF Worlds
1st place HP springer - 2014 Nats

AA TX200 MK111, Optisan Viper 8-32x60 JSB. VMach, TbT, maestro design.


Posted By: Pauly5
Date Posted: 18 May 2014 at 10:20am
If you keep staring at the thumb hole it's hypnotic. Confused

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Posted By: Davey
Date Posted: 19 May 2014 at 10:56am
Looks a bit grimy in the front half on the second pic, is that the underlayer of dark ply showing through?


Posted By: (pink)MIST
Date Posted: 19 May 2014 at 10:59am
It appears to be, but in the flesh it actually adds character almost looking like grain.
Lighting pretty poor in the pics :)

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NZAFTA President
1st place HP springer - 2014 WFTF Worlds
1st place HP springer - 2014 Nats

AA TX200 MK111, Optisan Viper 8-32x60 JSB. VMach, TbT, maestro design.


Posted By: (pink)MIST
Date Posted: 20 May 2014 at 11:13pm
Back on "the twin" tonight, started lining up the lh side rear/trigger hole/thumbhole and grip.
Also added more depth to the thumb up recess which has improved feel considerably
Pics coz I know it makes it more interesting :)
http://s1291.photobucket.com/user/brettnixon/media/2DBEDEAF-291D-447C-8753-E4DA0E9A83DE_zps6s0zxcs3.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">

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NZAFTA President
1st place HP springer - 2014 WFTF Worlds
1st place HP springer - 2014 Nats

AA TX200 MK111, Optisan Viper 8-32x60 JSB. VMach, TbT, maestro design.


Posted By: (pink)MIST
Date Posted: 20 May 2014 at 11:17pm
From here I'll hand sand the groove in front of the trigger hole to match the rh side one, and join the finger grooves on the grip up and blend them into the lh side, which should introduce another laminate line, tomorrows job :)

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NZAFTA President
1st place HP springer - 2014 WFTF Worlds
1st place HP springer - 2014 Nats

AA TX200 MK111, Optisan Viper 8-32x60 JSB. VMach, TbT, maestro design.


Posted By: (pink)MIST
Date Posted: 22 May 2014 at 8:33am
Started introducing the top edge line on the rh side, and put the cheek hollow into the lh side of the cheek rest.
http://s1291.photobucket.com/user/brettnixon/media/307D9D7F-8B77-41DB-9B2F-CADEC95706DC_zps9rob0lzd.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">

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NZAFTA President
1st place HP springer - 2014 WFTF Worlds
1st place HP springer - 2014 Nats

AA TX200 MK111, Optisan Viper 8-32x60 JSB. VMach, TbT, maestro design.


Posted By: (pink)MIST
Date Posted: 22 May 2014 at 8:05pm
Got into the lh side tonight, top and bottom of forend got shaped, front of trigger groove put in by hand, and marked out where cheekrest will get cut.
Also got some more definition on the rh side in the grip, now just need more #2 drum belts to do lh side grip.
THEN I'll put the first lot of oil onto it, watch this space coz this ones going to look nice! :)

http://s1291.photobucket.com/user/brettnixon/media/D66D96A6-CCE8-4B33-985B-07A3CD3A1821_zpsly3ylemc.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">

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NZAFTA President
1st place HP springer - 2014 WFTF Worlds
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AA TX200 MK111, Optisan Viper 8-32x60 JSB. VMach, TbT, maestro design.


Posted By: Davey
Date Posted: 23 May 2014 at 9:21am
I can't wait!


Posted By: (pink)MIST
Date Posted: 23 May 2014 at 11:00pm
Well then seeing as you can't wait, I finished the grip by hand! :)
2 1/2 hours of finishing that grip by hand.....

Then gave the whole thing a good gong over with 240grit and it's first coat of mirotone finishing oil.
Now I can let it dry, then 320g it, then repeat (oil and sand) with 400g and repeat again until stock takes no more colour, and has a smooth finish.
If I can get it done on time, it'll get 2pot cleared when mine goes through :)

http://s1291.photobucket.com/user/brettnixon/media/58EFD961-7249-40C7-8539-82C76AC43F35_zpskeb7ny2t.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">

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NZAFTA President
1st place HP springer - 2014 WFTF Worlds
1st place HP springer - 2014 Nats

AA TX200 MK111, Optisan Viper 8-32x60 JSB. VMach, TbT, maestro design.


Posted By: (pink)MIST
Date Posted: 27 May 2014 at 11:53pm
Marked out the cut lines for the cheekrests, and ran them (slowly) through the bandsaw today . Result - a more FT ready stock.
Tip - use masking tape on both sides of the stock and mark not only the cut line, but the lines for your support posts as well. The masking tape protects the stock and stops splintering while cutting, and having the post lines premarked makes things easy to line up once they're apart :)

http://s1291.photobucket.com/user/brettnixon/media/E5FE4815-1BCA-4EDB-AEA4-E91FE7B6D5D5_zps6ygwieh3.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">

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NZAFTA President
1st place HP springer - 2014 WFTF Worlds
1st place HP springer - 2014 Nats

AA TX200 MK111, Optisan Viper 8-32x60 JSB. VMach, TbT, maestro design.


Posted By: (pink)MIST
Date Posted: 28 May 2014 at 10:28pm
No pics tonight, but getting down to the finer points of fitting the action to #2.
The inletting fits, but still has to go down about 4mm, which I'm going to do by hand. It's a lot more work but it will be a more precise fit.
Still looking for some 6-6.5mm stainless rod for the cheekrest adjusting posts, and need to pick up the Allen head bolts (to lock to height of the posts ) but that's pretty easy.

Stock #1 has had the action fitted already, so no issues there, same rods and bolts needed, but all drilled and ready to have the rods bonded into the cheekrest.

Then come the accessories, both stocks will need buttplates (adjustable with hooks) and still contemplating on how to flush mount an adjustable hamster in stock #1.

The next lot of wood will get laminated over the weekend, enough for two more stocks, and maybe a grip set for a steyr or similar, and a couple of hamsters.
See what happens when there's nothing good on tv :)

-------------
NZAFTA President
1st place HP springer - 2014 WFTF Worlds
1st place HP springer - 2014 Nats

AA TX200 MK111, Optisan Viper 8-32x60 JSB. VMach, TbT, maestro design.


Posted By: Pauly5
Date Posted: 29 May 2014 at 6:01pm
Are you fabricating the butt hooks yourself? or are they the same as the one you have/had on the AA stock? 

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Posted By: (pink)MIST
Date Posted: 29 May 2014 at 6:41pm
Ian (nunga) will be fabricating the hooks, cheekrest adjusters, and adj hamster mechanisms.
I've got all the gear for wood, and plenty of ideas for metal :)

Sent through a cheekrest adjuster plan today, wait and see how the costing goes but it might be a viable option to self install for those wanting to do their own ( same with the hooks) the adj hamster mech will be very similar to the RAW ones popping up on everyone's guns, but I'd imagine they won't cost $250US plus freight :)

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NZAFTA President
1st place HP springer - 2014 WFTF Worlds
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AA TX200 MK111, Optisan Viper 8-32x60 JSB. VMach, TbT, maestro design.


Posted By: MAGPIE
Date Posted: 29 May 2014 at 9:42pm
Great write up thanks for sharing , can't wait to see the next products


Posted By: (pink)MIST
Date Posted: 29 May 2014 at 11:02pm
Thanks Scott , far from finished just yet tho :) tonight's instalment is the adjustable height cheekrest. Rather than try and fit me to the rifle, the bonus of either buying a target stock, or building your own, is that you can fit the rifle to you.
More comfort definitely , but as a side effect, you end up with less muscle tension while taking a shot.
Muscle tension , from forcing yourself into position, can pull you off target, so less of it is a better thing :)
A good example is Ian's tx, as a new rifle it shot really well, but the shape, even though they're pretty good, made Ian have to arch his back and crane his neck down to meet the rifle. Changing the stock to one with a higher cheekrest and a hamster sat him more upright so less tension through his back, the higher cheekrest brought him more into alignment with the scope and eliminated some of the neck craning, more relaxed he shot a lot better ( giving me the hurry up a fee times along he way. End result a lot higher score almost instantly.

Started by laying out masking tape through the area I was planing to mark/cut. This stops splintering when run through the bandsaw, and also gives you something to plan the cut(s) on instead of drawing it straight onto the wood. Marked the cut line, and also marked where the posts would run, makes it easy when the two pieces are apart for drilling angles etc.

Drilled the sides first, then the inserts got put in. Do this first so when you drill the top holes for the posts you'll clean through any if the inserts at the same time ,
Drilled from the top through for the posts and sleeves, installed the sleeves (tight press fit, some light taps with a hammer got them in tho
Next was to drill into the comb and instal the posts. Pretty simple and easy, longest part was making sure the all lined up
http://s1291.photobucket.com/user/brettnixon/media/3521ED65-C2F7-43ED-B9B1-D43864A74C68_zpsrnnjggvp.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">
Inserts

http://s1291.photobucket.com/user/brettnixon/media/903AB6A1-1122-46B3-AB56-081627C127DD_zpsiropoo1i.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">

Checked proper alignment and movement, and resined the posts in
End result, feels pretty sweet and goes up and down to meet me.

http://s1291.photobucket.com/user/brettnixon/media/4BC157B6-4CC7-41B9-BCA4-E382C9F7F7BD_zpsics6kk2r.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">
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NZAFTA President
1st place HP springer - 2014 WFTF Worlds
1st place HP springer - 2014 Nats

AA TX200 MK111, Optisan Viper 8-32x60 JSB. VMach, TbT, maestro design.


Posted By: (pink)MIST
Date Posted: 01 Jun 2014 at 7:45pm
Had a bit of time today while both kids had a sleep , so did a test fit/fire and this stock is nice :)
Still to be clear coated (gets dropped off next weekend) but this will give you a taste of what it's like.

http://s1291.photobucket.com/user/brettnixon/media/77B60E83-374A-4161-804D-0CF38D4C202E_zps0rut74dy.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">

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NZAFTA President
1st place HP springer - 2014 WFTF Worlds
1st place HP springer - 2014 Nats

AA TX200 MK111, Optisan Viper 8-32x60 JSB. VMach, TbT, maestro design.


Posted By: (pink)MIST
Date Posted: 04 Jun 2014 at 1:05pm
Next lot cut as blanks, Paul I'll weigh it tonight for you and give you a text with freight $

http://s1291.photobucket.com/user/brettnixon/media/3EDFC006-FCB2-4266-8575-98DF6CE657AA_zpsn4uwbotv.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">

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NZAFTA President
1st place HP springer - 2014 WFTF Worlds
1st place HP springer - 2014 Nats

AA TX200 MK111, Optisan Viper 8-32x60 JSB. VMach, TbT, maestro design.


Posted By: Davey
Date Posted: 04 Jun 2014 at 1:14pm
OOOooooooh Steyr grips!


Posted By: Pauly5
Date Posted: 04 Jun 2014 at 4:26pm
Mint!

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Posted By: Davey
Date Posted: 04 Jun 2014 at 5:01pm
Who are the other Steyr bits for?


Posted By: (pink)MIST
Date Posted: 04 Jun 2014 at 6:22pm
I know a guy who knows a guy ..... :)

-------------
NZAFTA President
1st place HP springer - 2014 WFTF Worlds
1st place HP springer - 2014 Nats

AA TX200 MK111, Optisan Viper 8-32x60 JSB. VMach, TbT, maestro design.


Posted By: (pink)MIST
Date Posted: 09 Jun 2014 at 1:03pm
Steyr grips , this is what 2 hours looks like :)
Start
http://s1291.photobucket.com/user/brettnixon/media/C3E5F16E-3237-47A8-9944-875B77087604_zps1zl8sswa.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">

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NZAFTA President
1st place HP springer - 2014 WFTF Worlds
1st place HP springer - 2014 Nats

AA TX200 MK111, Optisan Viper 8-32x60 JSB. VMach, TbT, maestro design.


Posted By: Davey
Date Posted: 09 Jun 2014 at 1:09pm
No thumb up flange?


Posted By: (pink)MIST
Date Posted: 09 Jun 2014 at 3:29pm
Nope, different idea using a more natural form for the hand

-------------
NZAFTA President
1st place HP springer - 2014 WFTF Worlds
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AA TX200 MK111, Optisan Viper 8-32x60 JSB. VMach, TbT, maestro design.


Posted By: (pink)MIST
Date Posted: 09 Jun 2014 at 10:24pm
A little more shaping taken place. What I'm going to do on the other (thumb) side is follow the natural rested form of the thumb. This should take any tension out of the hand as it will be in a naturally rested position.
It's similar to what the original steyr grip is, just a difference in angles. The fun part will be not only making it feel right, but making it blend into the rest of the grip, as it's a different enough angle to throw out steyrs whole design. All will be revealed in time......

http://s1291.photobucket.com/user/brettnixon/media/C21B7A9E-7152-4132-9F7A-4ADC2690BD2D_zpsjtjpgfk1.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">




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NZAFTA President
1st place HP springer - 2014 WFTF Worlds
1st place HP springer - 2014 Nats

AA TX200 MK111, Optisan Viper 8-32x60 JSB. VMach, TbT, maestro design.


Posted By: (pink)MIST
Date Posted: 10 Jun 2014 at 9:17am
Coming along nicely, bit more "organic" than standard steyr pieces, but wood shouldn't look mechanical :)
Started on the hamster as well

http://s1291.photobucket.com/user/brettnixon/media/ED606C02-28F5-44E1-B076-96803C62AC7C_zpspsx9t0bz.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">

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NZAFTA President
1st place HP springer - 2014 WFTF Worlds
1st place HP springer - 2014 Nats

AA TX200 MK111, Optisan Viper 8-32x60 JSB. VMach, TbT, maestro design.


Posted By: nunga
Date Posted: 10 Jun 2014 at 9:21am
This will be interesting to see how the new grip works out.  I can remember what I was taught at school with the woodwork class... the "three one one" grip. To this day i still use that grip as it is the most steady grip for holding any tools. If you apply this grip to a gun stock what do you get?


Posted By: Davey
Date Posted: 10 Jun 2014 at 9:36am
Too much pressure with the three fingers, generally.
 
For the rear hand it shouldn't have any other job than pulling the trigger in the seated position, although for kneelers/standers this changes.


Posted By: (pink)MIST
Date Posted: 10 Jun 2014 at 9:53am
I'm working on the unnecessary muscle tension, if your hand is in a naturally rested position it should be more comfortable, and should help promote a natural shooting position.
Could work , or I could be full of sh*t :) one way to find out :)

-------------
NZAFTA President
1st place HP springer - 2014 WFTF Worlds
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AA TX200 MK111, Optisan Viper 8-32x60 JSB. VMach, TbT, maestro design.


Posted By: mmamonster
Date Posted: 11 Jun 2014 at 7:52am
Nice work, i would make more and sell on trademe.

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killing is as easy as breathing


Posted By: (pink)MIST
Date Posted: 12 Jun 2014 at 8:51pm
Bit if a quick shaping on the cheekrest tonight, and now you can see them laid out as they'd go on a steyr :)
Still more to do on them but shows really how easy and quickly they can be made.
Watch this space, going to experiment with colour :)

http://s1291.photobucket.com/user/brettnixon/media/E3150855-1DE6-4F16-B97A-1BCC908F6D33_zps3fd3bnk0.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">

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NZAFTA President
1st place HP springer - 2014 WFTF Worlds
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AA TX200 MK111, Optisan Viper 8-32x60 JSB. VMach, TbT, maestro design.


Posted By: (pink)MIST
Date Posted: 15 Jun 2014 at 10:15pm
First dip in the colour, most will get sanded back as I go through the different grades of paper, but after each sand I'll apply colour again and let it soak in. Each colour application will be more and more thinned down , to stop it going dark.
As it gets down in the grade of paper it'll gain a smoother harder surface, and once the clear goes on it'll almost look reflective ( fingers crossed )
http://s1291.photobucket.com/user/brettnixon/media/80A4A136-2239-4DC1-8CE0-B2679C3DB3A0_zpsvcle6rea.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">

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NZAFTA President
1st place HP springer - 2014 WFTF Worlds
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AA TX200 MK111, Optisan Viper 8-32x60 JSB. VMach, TbT, maestro design.


Posted By: (pink)MIST
Date Posted: 16 Jun 2014 at 7:16pm
Bit of a scuff and a dip in a thinner version of the green, bit more transparency showing now
http://s1291.photobucket.com/user/brettnixon/media/A22C8ECF-3A67-4FC9-A20F-7EB66CF2E9F0_zpsmqnwyjnj.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">

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NZAFTA President
1st place HP springer - 2014 WFTF Worlds
1st place HP springer - 2014 Nats

AA TX200 MK111, Optisan Viper 8-32x60 JSB. VMach, TbT, maestro design.


Posted By: Pauly5
Date Posted: 16 Jun 2014 at 9:41pm
Did you get really angry then rip your clothes apart while making these?



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Posted By: (pink)MIST
Date Posted: 16 Jun 2014 at 10:29pm
Dude it's "shrek" not the hulk :)
Much friendlier.
I don't need to get angry to rip clothes off either , that's what the girls are for :)

-------------
NZAFTA President
1st place HP springer - 2014 WFTF Worlds
1st place HP springer - 2014 Nats

AA TX200 MK111, Optisan Viper 8-32x60 JSB. VMach, TbT, maestro design.


Posted By: (pink)MIST
Date Posted: 17 Jun 2014 at 11:22pm
Tried some mirotone oil on top of the colour tonight, looking for a bit more depth and definition, think it'll work, better get some more :)
http://s1291.photobucket.com/user/brettnixon/media/3FC02FDF-06C1-4565-A48D-B24BBF3230AA_zpsgkj8bk07.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">

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NZAFTA President
1st place HP springer - 2014 WFTF Worlds
1st place HP springer - 2014 Nats

AA TX200 MK111, Optisan Viper 8-32x60 JSB. VMach, TbT, maestro design.


Posted By: mmamonster
Date Posted: 19 Jun 2014 at 4:40am
Nice work.

-------------
killing is as easy as breathing


Posted By: (pink)MIST
Date Posted: 27 Jun 2014 at 8:52pm
Davey......here's another pic to help your feverish mind :)
Couple more mm to sand out of the inlet yet, but getting very close

http://s1291.photobucket.com/user/brettnixon/media/2D44ACA4-26E0-44B9-9748-5CAAB3460A60_zpshskrnhbr.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">

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NZAFTA President
1st place HP springer - 2014 WFTF Worlds
1st place HP springer - 2014 Nats

AA TX200 MK111, Optisan Viper 8-32x60 JSB. VMach, TbT, maestro design.


Posted By: Pauly5
Date Posted: 27 Jun 2014 at 9:46pm
Nice Brett. El capitano of team laminate. How are you working out where to sand? Do you use carbon paper or something to show pressure points.

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Posted By: (pink)MIST
Date Posted: 27 Jun 2014 at 10:20pm
No carbon paper, although that is an idea I may use on another one.
Silicon oil on the action, doesn't harm it, and marks the contact areas darker :)

Carbon paper will work great on a native timber without changing the colour, laminate darkens quickly with oil , and oils very easy to use .
There is a product designed specifically for this, inlet blue, but if you can find something that will do the job....

-------------
NZAFTA President
1st place HP springer - 2014 WFTF Worlds
1st place HP springer - 2014 Nats

AA TX200 MK111, Optisan Viper 8-32x60 JSB. VMach, TbT, maestro design.


Posted By: (pink)MIST
Date Posted: 02 Jul 2014 at 7:04pm
Not the best pic, but the level of gloss is evident. Sitting in Bombay at the moment, but coming to my place on Saturday.
This isn't wet, it's after a week of drying :). , better pics next week once the actions fitted


http://s1291.photobucket.com/user/brettnixon/media/297D1CA3-FFD3-4592-8E82-1BEB6898DC7E_zpsodrc8bze.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">


-------------
NZAFTA President
1st place HP springer - 2014 WFTF Worlds
1st place HP springer - 2014 Nats

AA TX200 MK111, Optisan Viper 8-32x60 JSB. VMach, TbT, maestro design.


Posted By: MAGPIE
Date Posted: 02 Jul 2014 at 8:21pm
Sweet


Posted By: Pauly5
Date Posted: 02 Jul 2014 at 8:46pm
Often licked, never beaten. Wink

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Posted By: (pink)MIST
Date Posted: 03 Jul 2014 at 5:32pm
And the next blank is in my garage :)
Not laminate but I think it'll do just nicely
http://s1291.photobucket.com/user/brettnixon/media/95D3F1C0-947D-4D5C-923F-82F94FB78779_zpsxy55vuxn.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">

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NZAFTA President
1st place HP springer - 2014 WFTF Worlds
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AA TX200 MK111, Optisan Viper 8-32x60 JSB. VMach, TbT, maestro design.


Posted By: (pink)MIST
Date Posted: 03 Jul 2014 at 9:16pm
and marked out ready for cutting
http://s1291.photobucket.com/user/brettnixon/media/2014-07/019C30A9-A3DE-4921-89F6-5D5E009CA755_zpsllzcbtzu.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">

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NZAFTA President
1st place HP springer - 2014 WFTF Worlds
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AA TX200 MK111, Optisan Viper 8-32x60 JSB. VMach, TbT, maestro design.


Posted By: Pauly5
Date Posted: 04 Jul 2014 at 7:18am
What guns will these be fitted with? The AA is developing a wardrobe.

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Posted By: (pink)MIST
Date Posted: 04 Jul 2014 at 9:21am
Ones for a hatsan, ones for an airarm s400/410 , but until they're inletted they'll fit anything :)

-------------
NZAFTA President
1st place HP springer - 2014 WFTF Worlds
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AA TX200 MK111, Optisan Viper 8-32x60 JSB. VMach, TbT, maestro design.


Posted By: MAGPIE
Date Posted: 04 Jul 2014 at 6:03pm
Cool , some real wood., lol


Posted By: nunga
Date Posted: 04 Jul 2014 at 7:24pm
yea pretty :)


Posted By: (pink)MIST
Date Posted: 05 Jul 2014 at 11:13pm
90% fitted
http://s1291.photobucket.com/user/brettnixon/media/576DDCC5-1DE6-487F-833D-DFE68EBC7A9E_zpsyrbu7csj.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">

http://s1291.photobucket.com/user/brettnixon/media/607CACC5-AC32-40DB-A440-507E01B03C64_zpsfoorkuy2.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">

Sure real wood is pretty. But so's the shine on this :)

http://s1291.photobucket.com/user/brettnixon/media/6F7DBDF2-8EC7-43C9-8291-084A37AD3D00_zps2k86yyh0.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">



-------------
NZAFTA President
1st place HP springer - 2014 WFTF Worlds
1st place HP springer - 2014 Nats

AA TX200 MK111, Optisan Viper 8-32x60 JSB. VMach, TbT, maestro design.


Posted By: (pink)MIST
Date Posted: 05 Jul 2014 at 11:20pm
And for the "real wood" fans, a sporter stock underway as well

http://s1291.photobucket.com/user/brettnixon/media/87CE0FA2-747B-4FF2-BE2C-57058BAD4842_zpsiqovk7hd.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">

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NZAFTA President
1st place HP springer - 2014 WFTF Worlds
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AA TX200 MK111, Optisan Viper 8-32x60 JSB. VMach, TbT, maestro design.


Posted By: Pauly5
Date Posted: 06 Jul 2014 at 8:44am
Yea nice, can't beat real wood. What type of wood is it?

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Posted By: (pink)MIST
Date Posted: 06 Jul 2014 at 10:50pm
Aged brown cedar. It's gotta be some of the best for figure or grain patterns, it is a hardwood, but being as dry as this is it's also very light. Smells great to work with to :)
Once it's made, and the action fitted, it should be slightly nose heavy, but with a hook that'll work great. Or the butt can be drilled/routered out and lead added to bring the balance point rearward.

And so it begins.......
http://s1291.photobucket.com/user/brettnixon/media/2014-07/CB2D1B7A-FEFF-4BF8-8DF8-9F87A34CB6B9_zps4zhtbos4.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">
http://s1291.photobucket.com/user/brettnixon/media/2014-07/94BD8B4C-6F35-4938-9A0E-E51031EAB354_zpsmhwz4g92.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">
http://s1291.photobucket.com/user/brettnixon/media/2014-07/92B08D5B-D3A3-4CE9-9140-9D7FBCEAC421_zpsi35pvkw2.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">

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NZAFTA President
1st place HP springer - 2014 WFTF Worlds
1st place HP springer - 2014 Nats

AA TX200 MK111, Optisan Viper 8-32x60 JSB. VMach, TbT, maestro design.


Posted By: (pink)MIST
Date Posted: 06 Jul 2014 at 11:51pm
Back to the original post. Stock turned up yesterday, very shiny and smooth :)
http://s1291.photobucket.com/user/brettnixon/media/61DCB5F6-78C9-46BF-84ED-6E1BEA730CC0_zps7erkzgn2.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">
http://s1291.photobucket.com/user/brettnixon/media/07288265-F43B-4A78-9A7E-96D766193FAF_zpsizgrhowx.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">
http://s1291.photobucket.com/user/brettnixon/media/6F7DBDF2-8EC7-43C9-8291-084A37AD3D00_zpsmg301ee9.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">

A quick fit up, with some machining by nunga and it's all go, now to see if I get used to it quickly or return to the original stock for the worlds
http://s1291.photobucket.com/user/brettnixon/media/2014-07/03963A56-AF50-4707-A723-66D0BA6629E9_zps3wwuyskf.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">
http://s1291.photobucket.com/user/brettnixon/media/2014-07/6A8A680B-44B1-4F79-8DEC-537BDB90DA44_zps4feasjpt.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">


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NZAFTA President
1st place HP springer - 2014 WFTF Worlds
1st place HP springer - 2014 Nats

AA TX200 MK111, Optisan Viper 8-32x60 JSB. VMach, TbT, maestro design.


Posted By: Shaqa
Date Posted: 08 Jul 2014 at 3:39pm
That cedar looks pretty nice grained wood.
As far as the laminate stock is concerned that looks nice as well, but I was advised against using laminated plywood as the successive layers are at 90 degree to each other and that exposes too much end grain.
I used a laminated pine beam when I made mine. I think yours has more contrast between layers though.


Posted By: (pink)MIST
Date Posted: 08 Jul 2014 at 6:23pm
The exposed end grain wasn't much of an issue once I started oiling and sanding, using a mirotone finishing oil which hardens followed by 500-600 grit w&d paper .
Knowing what that stuff works like and the fact is was getting lacquered left the material choices quite open .
The 90degree opposing grains also adds a heap of strength, not that I'm planning on bashing it around much :)

The cedar does have really nice grain, and has already broken 3 blades :) it's quite dense.....

What's your next one going to be shaqa?

-------------
NZAFTA President
1st place HP springer - 2014 WFTF Worlds
1st place HP springer - 2014 Nats

AA TX200 MK111, Optisan Viper 8-32x60 JSB. VMach, TbT, maestro design.


Posted By: Shaqa
Date Posted: 08 Jul 2014 at 6:34pm
Probably look at carved wall hangings


Posted By: Pauly5
Date Posted: 16 Jul 2014 at 10:26pm
Hows that next stock doing pink? I'm keen to see that.  I had a shoot with mine at 643 on sunday and it's good, really pleased with how it feels.

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Posted By: (pink)MIST
Date Posted: 16 Jul 2014 at 11:05pm
Next stocks going slow, other things taking priority, but there has been progress, and here's a couple preview pics just for you :)
http://s1291.photobucket.com/user/brettnixon/media/2014-07/C748D5FC-7230-442E-805C-C93C48962F16_zpsreotsi95.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">

http://s1291.photobucket.com/user/brettnixon/media/2014-07/17C2AA3D-FFDF-4DEE-AD7F-B01FF0B166BC_zpsnb6qekhd.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">

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NZAFTA President
1st place HP springer - 2014 WFTF Worlds
1st place HP springer - 2014 Nats

AA TX200 MK111, Optisan Viper 8-32x60 JSB. VMach, TbT, maestro design.


Posted By: mmamonster
Date Posted: 17 Jul 2014 at 8:23am
Nice work.

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killing is as easy as breathing


Posted By: Pauly5
Date Posted: 20 Jul 2014 at 10:43pm
Gee Brett, you'd think i'm trying to copy you but I am making a new stock for my 95 now.  I have a piece of Eucalyptus that I am using. I'm basically copying my 97 stock but will put an adjustable cheek piece like the 98.  I plan to use it for work now that my 97 is all FT'd out. The wood is hard as hell, nice and dense too which hopefully has a benefit. 





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Posted By: (pink)MIST
Date Posted: 21 Jul 2014 at 7:24am
Haha it's a bug isn't it! Once you've made one........
Looks good tho, maybe we have nz's new custom stock maker in Wellington :)

-------------
NZAFTA President
1st place HP springer - 2014 WFTF Worlds
1st place HP springer - 2014 Nats

AA TX200 MK111, Optisan Viper 8-32x60 JSB. VMach, TbT, maestro design.


Posted By: Pauly5
Date Posted: 21 Jul 2014 at 9:06am
I reckon we got the north island covered. Custom stocks and hooks. LOLWink
Yea if you can't be shooting them, playing with them is next best.


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Posted By: nunga
Date Posted: 21 Jul 2014 at 9:14am
hay Pauly dont copy it to much! that stock is for me and it is meant to be a one off  :) we cant have two of them knocking around lol :)


Posted By: Pauly5
Date Posted: 21 Jul 2014 at 8:02pm
I know what you mean, there are some similarities around the trigger.
 I am making it for my HW95 but was copying my 97 stock and thinking of adding some 98 into it. A Weirauch hybrid.
That's gonna look great with the grain. It will be an individual piece. 
Note i'm talking about bretts stock looking great, not blowing my own horn. I just re read it.


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Posted By: (pink)MIST
Date Posted: 22 Jul 2014 at 9:31am
Everyone is different if they're handmade. I see a lot of differences between them just at a glance.
The one I'm doing is longer, with a mix of FWB and AA in the rear, plus the pistol grip angle and thumb slot, just to name a few.
It's good to see people having a go rather than forking out the ridiculous dollars to import a bit of wood

-------------
NZAFTA President
1st place HP springer - 2014 WFTF Worlds
1st place HP springer - 2014 Nats

AA TX200 MK111, Optisan Viper 8-32x60 JSB. VMach, TbT, maestro design.


Posted By: (pink)MIST
Date Posted: 11 Aug 2014 at 9:54pm
Long time no updates here , sick kids taking priority.
Fitted one of nungas adjustable butt hooks to it now , and have to say they're very race gun!
A lot of adjustment, easy to fit and set up, one size Allen key for everything, and way below the cost of anything like it on the market. Top work nunga, , it's made this stock fit me so much better - now I just need to sort this damn shoulder out :)

Here it is fitted, gotta have gun porn :)
http://s1291.photobucket.com/user/brettnixon/media/E5069ABA-DE8D-471D-945E-6BA843FBD3B8_zpsyl4ess2p.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">

-------------
NZAFTA President
1st place HP springer - 2014 WFTF Worlds
1st place HP springer - 2014 Nats

AA TX200 MK111, Optisan Viper 8-32x60 JSB. VMach, TbT, maestro design.


Posted By: Pauly5
Date Posted: 21 Sep 2014 at 8:57pm
So I have pretty much finished the stock for my 95 and so I thought I would pull it apart today to have a look as I am going to drop it in power from about 890 to 750 fps. It will be my dedicated "sparrow gun" for the supermarkets.
When I took the spring out, it came out in 4 pieces!!Shocked The small bits had been wound into the ends so it had the effect of giving it a short powerful stroke..... i'm guessing. Either that or it plain broke and has been firing ok anyway. Shot cycle had always been nice and smooth, no rattles, just a nice thuick! (not sure how you spell that).Confused
Put it back together with just the main spring and it fired nicely at around 615 fps. I will either put some spacers on the top hat, wind one section of spring back in or buy a new spring to bring it up to the 750 fps mark.

Has anyone heard of the "inter-twined spring technique before"?



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Posted By: (pink)MIST
Date Posted: 21 Sep 2014 at 9:40pm
Looks broken to me, the two pieces that would be the ends are closed/flat to mate against their respective surfaces squarely, I'd try closing the mainspring ends to be flat, and putting a spacer at each end, with larger spacer(s) at the piston end.

Interesting that it still fired well though 😃

-------------
NZAFTA President
1st place HP springer - 2014 WFTF Worlds
1st place HP springer - 2014 Nats

AA TX200 MK111, Optisan Viper 8-32x60 JSB. VMach, TbT, maestro design.


Posted By: Pauly5
Date Posted: 21 Sep 2014 at 10:58pm
I know, that's why I thought it was deliberate. I can see in theory that it would Work ok, just not best practice. I have smoothed off spring ends and will put washers in soon. Pic of stock with action too come.

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Posted By: nunga
Date Posted: 22 Sep 2014 at 9:12am
Dont use spacers with that broken spring, it is broken to much and is too short now. You will find the coils will compress together and you wont be able to cock the gun by the time you space it up enough to get your FPS up. Also I think your High power gun has a heavier piston than the 12foot model so if you are planning to reduce the power you will need to replace the piston as well as the spring or you might run into problems. Brett, remember Glenn's problems with his gun siting in my workshop. He is using cut-down springs and spacers to get 12 foot pounds and look what he ended up using at the worlds.



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