Hornady hit indicator
Printed From: Kiwi Airgunners
Category: Target Shooting and Clubs
Forum Name: Target Shooting
Forum Description: Think you are a good shot? Show is in here!
URL: www.kiwiairgunners.co.nz/forum_posts.asp?TID=1061
Printed Date: 23 Nov 2024 at 5:10am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 10.14 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Hornady hit indicator
Posted By: Pauly5
Subject: Hornady hit indicator
Date Posted: 11 Aug 2024 at 9:24am
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https://store.hornady.com/hit-target-impact-indicator-4 these look good. Especially for the latest 100+ m challenge. |
Replies:
Posted By: kruzaroad
Date Posted: 18 Sep 2024 at 5:47pm
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Here's a question for you ppl with solar sensor spot lights out side. Would the motion of a metal plate moving set one off. Heres the thought. If I got a can size flat metal target, that swings from top, put a lite spring behind it to push it back out, brought one of those cheap outdoor solar spot lights with sensor, turned the spot back wards, sensor forward, pointed sensor at metal target would 2 or three inches of forward and backward movement set it off. Can you adjust the sensitivity and how long they stay on for. Looking for an alternate trip system that is usable on any reacting target and resets itself. Its also dirt cheap and requires no wiring. |
Posted By: nunga
Date Posted: 18 Sep 2024 at 6:48pm
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It would work if the sensor was right next to it i would think. the further away you are the bigger the movement needs to be. With ours a cat will set it off but birds will not. ------------- 2nd place HP springer - WFTF World Championships 2014 |
Posted By: kruzaroad
Date Posted: 18 Sep 2024 at 6:54pm
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Do you think the reflective properties of metal would help. |
Posted By: nunga
Date Posted: 18 Sep 2024 at 7:41pm
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Having thought about it a bit more i do not think it would work. the sensors in those lights pickup IR waves and the Motion Sensor is designed to detect "Warm Movement"
from it's field of view, and switch the light on when this is triggered.
This "Warm Movement" refers to any object passing by the sensors
detection zone that gives off heat, such as people or animals
approaching the light. So no it will not work. ------------- 2nd place HP springer - WFTF World Championships 2014 |
Posted By: kruzaroad
Date Posted: 18 Sep 2024 at 7:48pm
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Wow that's more tech than I thought for a 30 buck light! I'll have a look around and see if they just motion sensors only ones. Ir should reflect off metal shouldn't it? . Cheers for the heads up. |
Posted By: kruzaroad
Date Posted: 18 Sep 2024 at 9:10pm
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Turns out a lot of driveway sensors are laser. That might work better. Break the beam alarm goes off. Solar. Think I'll follow that train of thought. Does anyone know of a smaller laser trip wire? |
Posted By: Pauly5
Date Posted: 18 Sep 2024 at 9:42pm
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What about hit a spinner that breaks the beam? |
Posted By: kruzaroad
Date Posted: 18 Sep 2024 at 10:38pm
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That could work and simple. I'll play with that concept cheers. I've been trying to find something to install inside a case, so when an arm goes back it breaks the beam. My search words are getting me nowhere. |
Posted By: kruzaroad
Date Posted: 02 Oct 2024 at 5:32pm
Well still need to change trip mechanism at some stage but she's getting closer to finished. It will wire to a 12v battery and you can plug a spotlight in. Has its own power source for the light on it, which is movable. Is about a hand long not quite the same high. The forward nail is to hang heavier plate on (still got to make that) for closer shots or gruntier rifles. It swings into the back plate and trips it. The plate on it is very light weight and is for extreme distance shooting when the fpe is real low. Gonna put a couple bits of ply to side for windshield. But I'm pretty stoked it's pick it up one hand set it where ever and shoot. Wouldn't mind sorting out a reset when I rebuild a new trip. Maybe a separate front plate with a one inch hole. Will see. 
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Posted By: kruzaroad
Date Posted: 02 Oct 2024 at 5:37pm
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Top half comes off for tutuing with internals. Cost nothing so far it's all built from stuff laying around. |
Posted By: nunga
Date Posted: 02 Oct 2024 at 7:35pm
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It looks like something from lost in space....Danger will Robinson...Danger....
------------- 2nd place HP springer - WFTF World Championships 2014 |
Posted By: kruzaroad
Date Posted: 02 Oct 2024 at 8:02pm
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About as primitive too. 🤣😁 |
Posted By: kruzaroad
Date Posted: 04 Oct 2024 at 10:15am
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Gone borg now. Pretty much set up. Can be refined and will be shrunk, but for now concept is done (aprt from final trip) Super sensitive 100m+  Standard which should take 50m+ Has a heavier plate.  Inch hole face plate, made by punch through so I could flatten the excess metal behind hole for bit more rigidity.  Version 2 should be a much tider version. When get if butt to make it. |
Posted By: Billbobnz
Date Posted: 04 Oct 2024 at 11:03pm
| Nice work |
Posted By: Pauly5
Date Posted: 05 Oct 2024 at 9:37am
| Good stuff. Makes you appreciate how much work goes into research and development of a functioning item. I find it fascinating as everyone thinks differently. |
Posted By: JasonEdward
Date Posted: 05 Oct 2024 at 12:51pm
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Love to see back-yard engineers making sh*t a non engineer like me could copy if I wanted to - good on ya mate! The point is it will work or you'll mod it until it does what you want. 10! OK, maybe 9.5 but the final model on the market will look flasher and get 10 so it's a 9.5 from me, and I look forward to seeing the 10!
------------- |
Posted By: kruzaroad
Date Posted: 05 Oct 2024 at 9:20pm
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Yeah no market, wasting time. It works. The first one, that I I've nicked the trip from, went fine at 173m and got wind tripped at 182m. I've added what it needed. Ran out of scrape ply. Last piece that holds target bit fat. I've been seriously thinking of going finding some one who can wire me up a circuit board that will activate for 10 sec then switch off. I've got a plan for a selfsetting trip if i can sort the circuit. |
Posted By: Pauly5
Date Posted: 05 Oct 2024 at 10:32pm
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Maybe someone that knows about Arduino can do this. You might even find a science experiment kit that has a timer. I made a remote resetting target using a remote relay switch. when the target is knocked down the remote fired a car door lock actuator to push the target back up. So you could have a knock over arm that completes a circuit turning a light on, then to turn it off, use the remote to reset the arm. There might be somethng on Aliexpress. There are motion activated lights that stay on for 30 seconds, so there must be simple circuitry available.
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Posted By: nunga
Date Posted: 06 Oct 2024 at 7:44am
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https://www.jaycar.co.nz/12v-3a-time-switch-module-m113a/p/AA0364" rel="nofollow - https://www.jaycar.co.nz/12v-3a-time-switch-module-m113a/p/AA0364 ------------- 2nd place HP springer - WFTF World Championships 2014 |
Posted By: kruzaroad
Date Posted: 06 Oct 2024 at 8:22am
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Sweet I stop in on way to town. Thinking more along the torch battery power circuit. The 12 volt adds a lot of bulk and weight. But still undecided. Having said that, if I can walk into jaycar show them that unit then say got same thing in 5v I'm in business. Decided for the trip to get small piece of pipe. Put a spring inside that extends past end. Have a larger snug fitting Pipe over out side with a small fin on it. 2 inch target plate other end. Hit the plate the outer pipe pushes back, fin break beam, timer sets off, target springs back, 10 sec later light stops. Ready to reshoot. Should be able to get that unit least half that size. |
Posted By: kruzaroad
Date Posted: 06 Oct 2024 at 1:08pm
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Well been doing a few measurements and calculations. Recon I'll drop this right down in size. Been looking at diy laser trips on Web. Seems a laser pointer and few bits and bobs make a laser trip at 5v quite simply. Still beyond me, so ill see about getting one made up. But the paper work looks promising. 
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Posted By: kruzaroad
Date Posted: 09 Oct 2024 at 2:05pm
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That's sweet metal parts for new trip, 10 bucks. Happy with that. Hopefully someone with a bit more electronic experiance can help me with the laser side or me the soldering and a list of swear words that would make ya mum turn red will have to have a crack at it. With my soldering skills might have a chance but can see me overheating components. 
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Posted By: kruzaroad
Date Posted: 14 Oct 2024 at 3:26pm
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Sweet the timer/reset switch arrived. It's way smaller than I expected. Which is awesome. Brought two of them, so had one spare. 22 bucks delivered for both. That's 32 bucks so far. Cheers Pauly for pointing those out. Appreciated 
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Posted By: kruzaroad
Date Posted: 17 Oct 2024 at 4:27pm
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Laser trip arrived. Pretty much all I need are the 4 pieces below the green block and the block. The round bit to the left is the alarm speaker which isn't going on,and I'm planning on tapping into it's power activion, as power ro trip the timer. There's a 5v power out on timer switch which I'll tap into for power. I'll either run a couple of resistors which will drop it to 3.3v for feed in. Or go into the shop with the parts and ask if I they have them in 5v. Which saves adding stuff. 
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Posted By: Pauly5
Date Posted: 17 Oct 2024 at 8:17pm
| Looking good. I really wish I knew more about electronics. |
Posted By: kruzaroad
Date Posted: 17 Oct 2024 at 9:06pm
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Pauly, I'm just winging it. All I know is,I want a laser to send a signal to a timer, the timer to trip a light for 20sec then reset If I can get it all 5volt for laser an circit, I cut down on stuff. Everything else I'm s of rting as I go. |
Posted By: kruzaroad
Date Posted: 19 Oct 2024 at 6:34pm
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That works out well. Turns out your standard phone charging power bank battery puts out 5v. So USB from the power bank to timer relay is plug in. That powers up relay. From 2nd USB port on power bank,run a wire to com (common) on relay, and one from com to negitive on light. The positive goes from battery to no (normally open) and no to positive on light. That gave me light on for the length of the timer. So was stoked with that. Next will be add 2nd power wire from the 2nd USB port on the power bank to the positive on the laser and the laser receiver. A resistor that goes from 5v to 3v on both laser and reciever wires,after I split the wire coming from battery. Then both of those will have their negitive run back to com. From the alarm connection for the speaker it has, I'll get a step up circit from 3v to 5v, wire to that then from that to the trip connector on the relay. That's the theory. There is a nc (normally closed) connection as well. From what I can work out, nc runs power till switch trips then it goes to no. So I may be able to wire laser and reciever into that. That could power the laser reciever then switch it off while light is on. Will see. The USB plug popped off the first relay,so seeing if that glues back on. Brought a spare so that was good. |
Posted By: RangerPete
Date Posted: 19 Oct 2024 at 11:17pm
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You lost me ages ago... But you seem to know what your doing, so keep going. Will be interesting to see it all in action soon. ------------- Walk quietly, but carry a big stick. |
Posted By: kruzaroad
Date Posted: 19 Oct 2024 at 11:40pm
| So keep going? Sorry didn't relise you had a say in it. |
Posted By: kruzaroad
Date Posted: 21 Oct 2024 at 4:23pm
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Another change in plan, either same type of relay but in 3v. Getting to many components for my likes, or 5 volt trip wire laser. Either way it will get rid of the resistor for drop down voltage and the having to increase voltage for signal trip. One small circuit and wires as opposed to 2 small circuits and resistor,sounds less likey to cause issues. Try find the 5v laser first, like the idea of running strait from standard power bank and 5v LEDs are brighter. |