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The $100 challenge.....

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KiwiTR6 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KiwiTR6 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Sep 2023 at 10:45am
Thinking about it a bit more, I might keep the teflon seal but remove the rubber bump stop, I can always make another if it gets munted.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kruzaroad Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Sep 2023 at 6:51pm
The original piston seal sits on top of that spacer cone at end. The shape of that cone would take a bit of impact out,in my view.
Lets the full flat face upto chamber wall.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KiwiTR6 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Sep 2023 at 9:29pm
Another afternoon of disappointment Cry. Cleaned everything up, straightened the spring without too much effort, made up a slim steel top hat and a thin washer (the two together only about 20 thou thicker than the factory steel washer I removed), reinstalled the original seal and then applied a nice red assembly lube I had lying around that claims to have 3 times the scuff resistance of moly grease.  That's good enough for me and what's more, it must be fast because it's red!  Cocked it for the first time and the action was silky smooth - cool!!!  Then I decided to de-cock it and it dry fired even though I was holding the barrel, and after that it wouldn't latch.  Oops, something's not right for sure.  

I removed the stock and there it was right in front of me, the piston had disengaged from the cocking lever! (you can only just make it out amongst the grease in one of the photos).  How could this possibly happen you might ask?  Well, as embarrassed as I am to admit it, I'm a complete plonker and assembled it (and did so several times earlier as well) with the shoe between the cylinder and the piston.  I missed doing it as I compressed the spring and didn't even realize what I'd done as I was able to easily insert the shoe after it was together without noticing that I wasn't putting it into the piston slot!  What a dumb ass.  So, it was cocking against the raided outer edge of the piston, badly side loading it and gauging both the piston and the shoe. This certainly explains the issues I was having yesterday with metal to metal grinding and erratic shots.

The only way to sort out this immediate issue was a hammer to knock the shoe back over the piston into the swaged centre section so it could be removed.  Some more damage to the piston now, but again the cylinder has survived unscathed. It's a pity the piston wall isn't a straight tube with some minor skimming to created slightly raised ends, that would have made it almost impossible for me to do what I did.  I sure am learning about these things the hard way Ouch.

The next move now is to build up the piston with weld at both ends and also weld up the damaged slot end then machine and grind everything back to decent tolerances.  Ive started by cutting out the original weld on the lathe and removing the centre rod.  Tomorrow night, I start welding!






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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Billbobnz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Sep 2023 at 9:51pm
Oh bummer that's a pain.

I flippen cut a chunk off the end of my left thumb last night so hindering me at the moment. I need to disassemble mine against and refine the trigger etc... my spring is as wobbly as. Found a polishing wheel at work during a tidy up so will be polishing the piston and trigger parts
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kruzaroad Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Sep 2023 at 6:53am
Run a bolt ( or a self tapper) through the trigger gaurd billbob.
Even after polishing and lubing the trigger sears, how sensitive I got it with self tapper is like night and day.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kruzaroad Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Sep 2023 at 6:59am
Tr6 you are not alone with reassembling the cocking lever between the piston and cylinder wall. I did the same thing on the gamo first time I pulled it apart.
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KiwiTR6 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KiwiTR6 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Sep 2023 at 7:29am
That's bad luck BB, hopefully it's not too serious?  I cut a finger with a chisel recently, it's amazing how much an injured digit slows you down.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Pauly5 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Sep 2023 at 8:26am
A few weeks ago I was pulling one strand of aluminium swarf off the lathe and it cut a deep slot in my thumb engaging every nerve it could. Although not serious, they do get in the way those injuries.

I'll be keen to see how you weld up those parts. It's a good idea as there's not a lot of meat in that cocking shoe, and if those parts get a bit more meat in them it should create a more positive action.

Welding is something I know very little about. although I have made metal popcorn trying.
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KiwiTR6 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KiwiTR6 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Sep 2023 at 8:52am
I have the option of MIG or TIG.  I'm pretty average at both but manage to get stuff done.  I'll probably build it up with the MIG and put a blob where the shoe locates, then grind it all back with the belt sander first and then finish it off on the lathe.  

I think Kruza was right about the cone washer under the factory seal, that would definitely help absorb the shock from the piston.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KiwiTR6 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Sep 2023 at 9:07pm
Cylinder repairs completed tonight and ready for reassembly tomorrow night with any luck.  I MIG welded around the perimeter where I'd done the damage and made up an internal spacer to allow me to clamp the soft cylinder wall in the lathe and also align the centre rod I'd removed.  After I'd ground off the excess weld I turned it down to 25.0mm giving me 0.5mm clearance to the the cylinder wall (0.25 all round) rather than the 1.0mm it had originally.  I then reinstalled the rod and  TIG welded then base back into place.  Then into the lathe to clean up the piston seat area taking a little off it as my welding didn't include any filler so eroded away the perimeter edge a bit.  This will however compensate for the extra thickness of the steel top hat.

I took the opportunity while it was apart to polish the inside wall of the piston and the full length of the rod.   Some hand work with the Dremel and a small tungsten ball cutter plus files to clean up the lower edge of the MIG weld and the cocking shoe bearing area followed by polishing of the piston exterior and I'm done.

It's not a particularly pretty sight up close, but I'm sure it will work fine - that's if I remember to assemble it correctly this time around Wink










Edited by KiwiTR6 - 13 Sep 2023 at 9:10pm
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