The $100 challenge..... |
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KiwiTR6
Senior Member Joined: 03 Nov 2022 Location: Stratford Status: Offline Posts: 269 |
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Thanks jwabfrog and apologies guys, I've removed this incorrect piece of info to save any future confusion
Edited by KiwiTR6 - 03 Sep 2023 at 6:55pm |
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FX Wildcat MK111 BT Sniper .25
FX Dreamline Classic .22 Diana Outlaw .22 Cometa Fenix 400 .177 Weihrauch HW50 .177 Crosman 2240 PCP Custom .22 Crosman 2250 PCP Custom .22 |
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jwabfrog
Senior Member Joined: 12 Nov 2021 Location: Thames Status: Offline Posts: 141 |
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Hi Kiwi, I think that's referred to as the main guide. The top hat sits on the opposite end of the spring that sits inside the piston. Have a look at the tinbum tuning kits and install videos and this will explain in further detail.
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RangerPete
Senior Member Joined: 18 Apr 2023 Location: Cambridge. Status: Offline Posts: 881 |
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Bastards!!!
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Walk quietly, but carry a big stick.
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Billbobnz
Senior Member Joined: 13 Jun 2020 Location: Ashburton Status: Offline Posts: 865 |
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Buggers!!
Righto had the weekend off doing family stuff after deer hunting on Friday. I'm back into my rebuild this week. I had been wondering about an O ring seal too. And will be doing a little after hours at work with the lathe |
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Billbobnz
Senior Member Joined: 13 Jun 2020 Location: Ashburton Status: Offline Posts: 865 |
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Talking of top hats, inside the piston with the Rod thing that goes back to the trigger, could be an area to make something to centralise the spring around like what a top hat does
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Pauly5
Forum Moderator Joined: 10 Mar 2013 Location: Titahi Bay Status: Online Posts: 1401 |
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Generally a top hat and spring guide will do the job supporting the spring. The key is making all the tollerances good and centralizing the piston.
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KiwiTR6
Senior Member Joined: 03 Nov 2022 Location: Stratford Status: Offline Posts: 269 |
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OK, I think this could be the reason why I wasn't able to achieve any sort of grouping with the Tasco scope mounted in the grooves on the cylinder. The breech seal is made of some fairly stiff plastic material (with felt washers behind) and as you can see from the photos is significantly tapered. I'm pretty sure the widest part at the top doesn't fully compress meaning the angle of the barrel can vary depending on how much pressure is applied by the user when it's closed. I'll be replacing this with an inner plastic spacer ring and an O-ring (if I can find something suitable) so that the breech closes with full metal to metal contact. |
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FX Wildcat MK111 BT Sniper .25
FX Dreamline Classic .22 Diana Outlaw .22 Cometa Fenix 400 .177 Weihrauch HW50 .177 Crosman 2240 PCP Custom .22 Crosman 2250 PCP Custom .22 |
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Pauly5
Forum Moderator Joined: 10 Mar 2013 Location: Titahi Bay Status: Online Posts: 1401 |
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Interesting, so do you think a wedge shaped spacer ring will help, or a softer pliable seal?
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Pauly5
Forum Moderator Joined: 10 Mar 2013 Location: Titahi Bay Status: Online Posts: 1401 |
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I took mine apart last night, finally.
Smoothed factory edges, spring ends, trigger sears. Put piston in lathe and gave it a quick polish, and interestingly it wasn't horrifically out of concentricity. I put the spare HW seal I had on too. There was a gritty feel to everything, so I cleaned it down and applied Moly grease to touching parts. The gun was basically dry anyway and what they used was quite thin and would have ended up in the compression tube eventually. I really like KiwiTr6 trigger mod, but don't know how to braze so will work my way around that, but I will put shims in to hold the trigger central in the rear block. I'll put it back tonight and see how it feels as it is for now. The seal may not be quite right, but will possibly look to do an O ring seal on the piston end.
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KiwiTR6
Senior Member Joined: 03 Nov 2022 Location: Stratford Status: Offline Posts: 269 |
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Paul, I'm wanting metal to metal contact at the breech with a fully compressed nitrile or butyl O-ring. I'm not sure if this is the correct thing to be doing but I'll give it a go. My piston isn't terribly concentric and I compressed and tack welded the top joint to get it a bit closer to round. I'm going to button it anyway (I've figured out how to do this without wasting too much of my 30mm PTFE rod) which will overcome this. For the trigger I silver-soldered the part on. Not a lot of heat required, just gentle application of a propane torch to the area, with tiny pieces of the solder strategically placed and some flux. I filed the black coating off the trigger and used a long screw to hold the brass piece in place with Blu-tack which surprisingly didn't liquefy with the heat. Another issue I want to address is end of the slot where the cocking lever engages with the piston. I started to feel some metal to metal contact when cocking the gun after the first set of mods and decided to pull it back down to check. No damage to the cylinder but the soft steel of the piston had pushed out in two places where the lever presses against it. I've cleaned that off and squared the hole to better match the lever end and I have some Kasenit (direct copy apparently) case hardening powder on its way from Croatia via Ebay. I'll use that on both items to hopefully correct that issue. Kasenit doesn't appear to be available any longer and the Cherry Red alternative that you can buy locally is ridiculously expensive. If anyone wants the link please say so. Edited by KiwiTR6 - 04 Sep 2023 at 12:50pm |
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FX Wildcat MK111 BT Sniper .25
FX Dreamline Classic .22 Diana Outlaw .22 Cometa Fenix 400 .177 Weihrauch HW50 .177 Crosman 2240 PCP Custom .22 Crosman 2250 PCP Custom .22 |
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