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Basic mrad scope use overview for beginers

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kruzaroad View Drop Down
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    Posted: 05 Jan 2025 at 1:51am

Mrad stands for milliradians.

FOR UNDERSTANDING MRAD

A circle is divided into 6.2832 sections, each called a “ radian“
Each “radian“ is 57.3°

To measure the width in a “radian“ we use " milliradians" (mil for short)
There are 1000 "milliradians" (mil) in a single “radian“
This means there are 6283 "milliradens" (mil) in a full circle.

As one "milliradian" (mil) is quite big , it gets broken into ten smaller sections for more precise adjustment of your scope.

These smallest sections equate to one "click" when adjusting your scope turret dial.
Ten clicks equal 1 "milliradian" (mil)

Summary:
6 sections to a circle.
1000 divisions in each section.
Each 1000th division has 10 smaller divisions.
Each one of the 10 smaller divisions is equal to one click on the rifle scope.
One click = 1/10th of a milliradian (mil)
10 clicks = 1 milliradian (mil)
   1 milliradian (mil) = 1 mildot on the scope reticle.

UNDERSTAND HOW IT WORKS WITH YOUR SCOPE.

Imagine a big flat horizontal circle around your scope. ( Any distance but say 10m or you could draw it on a piece of paper)
The center of the circle is the center of the crosshairs.
Now divide that into 6 equal sections from the center. You now have your “radians“
You will see that it looks like a round pizza, cut into 6 pieces.
You should also notice that each piece starts off very small at the center and gets wider at the crust.
This means the further away from the center of the cross hairs the outside of circle is the is the more mildots it will take to cover the length of the outside edge.
This is because you are working with angles.
This means that a small adjustment gets bigger the further away it gets from scope. ( Think of cutting a slice of round pizza thicker or thinner, but the knife is a pellet or bullet and the other side where it mets the crust is the bullseye)
That is why the scope uses "milliradian" (mil) and clicks (0.1 mil) to make the angles smaller for when you adjust.

Examples:
1 mildot adjustment on the scope shooting at distance of:
1000m = 1 meter movement from the bullseye.
100m = 10cm movement from the bulls.
    50m =   5cm movement from the bulls.

One click (0.1) adjustment is equal to
5mm at 50m
10mm at 100m
20mm at 200m etc.

This is the same principle vertically.

Summary
Adjusting the scope will make the projectile move a bigger distance from the bullseye at distances than it does closer in, at the same setting.
Using metric system for distance will allow for easier adjustment calculation on mrad scope.
The principal applies to both horizontal and vertical adjustment.

WINDAGE AND DROP

This will be affected by the projectile shape and weight, the power it is launched with, the weather conditions.
I cant give specific details for this.
But using the above principles allows you to make adjustments.

DROP/RISE
A scope when you look through it gives you a strait line of sight.
A projectile when it leaves the barrel starts to drop strait away.
Its going so fast that this turns into a long slow arc into the ground.
If the scope and barrel were dead level with each other you would never be able to hit a target as the scope would never point where the projectile flys.
But they arnt!
The scope and gun are so designed that when mounted they actually slightly face each other.
This means that the strait line of sight of the scope will now cross the projectile path. TWICE.
The first time soon after the projectile leaves the barrel and the second time further away as the projectile is arcing towards the ground steeper. ( If you draw an arc on a piece of paper and then draw strait line though it so it passes through two points of the arc you get an exaggerated idea of how the angle and line of sight work)
This now means the projectile will come from under the line of sight, go over the line of sight and fall back through the line of sight .
You have two points where the center of the cross hairs are zeroed. One near, one far.
For the rest of the arc you have hold under , and hold over.
Hold under is after the projectile has crossed over the near zero and is now higher than the line of sight, so you need to drop the cross hairs lower to compansate for it.
Hold over is the projectile is below the line of sight so you need to lift the cross hairs to compansate for it.

USING MILDOTS TO COMPANSATE AND DIAL

There are apps and equations for this that need your specific data from your rifle and projectile.
But you can also do it buy shooting targets at varing distance.
Zero your scope for the distance you want to zero at .
Find out what magnification your scope is set for true readings. 10x magnification is standard for a lot of scopes. Set up targets ( on a wind free day or area) at 5m spacings to max distance you want to shoot(air rifles ,as this is an air rifle forum)
and aiming with the cross hairs zeroed to the center of the bullseye proceed to shoot the targets. 5 shots per target.
This should give you a good group.
For the next step be at 10x magnification or what ever your scope is factory set to for accurate mildot measurements.
You can then look through the scope and count how many mildots you are under or over and write it down. You will then need to hold the opposite amount to correct.

Example: Your 3.5 mildots under the bullseye, then you need to hold 3.5 mildots over the bulls eye to hit the bullseye. 3.5 over,hold 3.5 under

You can also measure the distance from the bullseye to the center of the group you shot and work out how many mildots you need to adjust for that distance.
Both ways can be translated to dail up or down on the turrets as you know the relationship between mildots on retical and turret dailing from the first section.
If you go for dailing fine tune on targets as it will give you more accurate resaults.

WINDAGE

You will need to learn to reconise wind speed and how far it pushes your projectile over certain distances.
Shoot targets in the wind and at differnt angles and distance in the wind.
As well as pushing your projectile across, some wind angles will push your projectiles up and down.
The apps usually will adjust for this if you enter the wind speed. There are equations to work it out. There are wind scale charts that give wind speed indication by plant movement. (Beauford scale)
Its the same principle as for using mildots for drop except using your horizontal mildot markings instead of vertical.
Once you know how much the projectile moves you can do the windage correction by visually holding the correct amount of mildots into the wind or dial the windage.

Both windage and drop will very with projectile shape and speed so youll need to work it out for your set up

RANGE FINDING WITH MILDOTS

You can get distance to a target using mildots.... If you know the target size.
But you need to know the size!

This done by
1: knowing what size your target is.
2: being set to the correct magnification for "bracketing" the target
3: adjusting the scope till target is crisp and clear.

The correct magnification is usually 10x
but whatever the factory recommendation is for your scope is the right one.

Example. An adult European brown hare in New Zealand has a 10cm head length as well as 10cm ears from tip to base.
So if one mildot = 10cm at 100m then the head or ears should be 2 mildots.
50m 4mildots etc .

This equation will change with differnt magnifications, so you need to look up the equation and apply it to your situation.

This a basic overview of mrad scope usability. It can be used with imperial but im not familiar with that system or the conversions.

However 1mrad (mil) =
3.6 inches at 100 yards

One click (1/10)of a mrad is
0.36 inches at 100 yards
0.18 inches at 50 yards

So it's all the same principles but based off how imperial measurements work.

If this sounds like something you might like to explore there are much more detailed explanations and the formulas for working them out on the web.
Happy shooting.












Edited by kruzaroad - 05 Jan 2025 at 2:49pm
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JasonEdward View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JasonEdward Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jan 2025 at 12:08pm
Nice summary Kruza.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kruzaroad Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jan 2025 at 12:26pm
Thats all it is.
Couldn't be bothered going into detail. Is for newbies really, try and encouraging them to understand the scope more. Most members here are way past the info on it.

Edited by kruzaroad - 05 Jan 2025 at 1:52pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kruzaroad Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jan 2025 at 3:56pm
More info.
There is a whole heap of hidden info on your scope that doesn't show
when you look through it.
Just as you have to learn how to use mrad you have to learn how to use this info on your scope.
This my scope and the info is for it and may not be the same as yours.
Check your scope booklet for your scope details ( or you can most likely find the info online for your scope)
First the view of the reticle as seen through the scope.


Its a half mildot scope hence the lines between the mildots.
But the thickness of the mildots, the length of the half midot lines are all that way for a reason and they help with using the scope more accurately.



Knowing how big your mildots are or how long your half mildots lines are, the thickness of the posts are further ways to gauge the distance your aiming at or get more precise distance for range finding.

For example
If your using hold over and the target is sitting right in line with the top of a mildot thats an extra .12 approx of a mrad from that mildot center. Other markings dont give you that fine a margin.

The hollow post at the end of the cross hairs is a half mrad. That's a quarter mrad either side of the center of the line. Useful for judging windage in a slight breeze if you only need a quarter mil hold off bullseye or just a .25 of a mil hold under or over off the bullseye for drop.
It more accurate than eye balling it.
The most useful for range finding are the 0.2 mrad between the 5th and 6th mildot marks in the hollow posts.
It allows you to bracket the target more accurately.

Example the target your trying to range by scope and it is 2.? mildots from the vertical cross hair. Its not quite a quarter or not quite a half and your not totally steady,making it a bit harder to judge.
Move the cross hairs from the vertical crosshair where you may have been basing the measurement from, to the center of the 3rd mildot.
You now have two mildots to the the 5th mildot and the extra width of your target, you couldn't quite decided on is now in the 0.2 mrad markings and much more easy to decide just what that extra length is.

There are 3 differnt scope types.
First focal plane
Second focal plane
Fixed focus
You will need to know what type of scope you have and how this info applies to your scope as the markings react diffent depending on your scope type when you zoom.

For the mathmatically challanged, cant be bothered learning it, just want shoot and verifying apps heres what use for my air rifle.
I set it up at 5m intervals which are set by a range finder or tape measured from my shooting spot.
( A good idea for range finder is to put a flat bit of ply standing up where you shoot from and just range find to that and mark the spot then do the next 5m etc etc)
I range from 10m to the max distance I want to shoot too,as I muck around with long distance air rifle shooting. ( Thats well over a 100m, but my hunting distance is only 80m at the moment as thats as far I can shoot with confidence of hitting target first time and with accurate placement. The gun has proven it will do more but for now thats my limit hunting.)
If your doing it for hunting its too the max distance your gun will either
a) still have enough power to kill what your hunting
Or
B) the max distance you can consistently group into a 25mm (inch) target.
Anything past that is target shooting only.



The target is set level with the rifle height.
It allows me to verify my hold under and hold over.
The 10cm square is 1 mildot wide at 100m and I use that to measure how many mildots are covered at differnt ranges for range finding. ( Happens to be the length and ear height of a hare, my primary target.)
The imperial square 3.6 inches is just because I was interested in how it compared in mildots to the metric square at same distances set at meters.
Both the hare and rabbit head are to give me a better idea of what it looks like measuring with mildots through the scope. The 20cm black mark is the height of a standing starling for range finding.
I record all observations of mildots and distance of the targets and write it down. I record all hold over or hold under for distances and record it. Then I learn them.

It is far more benifit to actually learn all the math you need for mrad scope use. This way is more fun.
The hold under and over will only apply to the gun you do it with.

For long distance and windage I have a much bigger carboard back drop to account for drop and windage movement when practicing/learning windage and drop.



Edited by kruzaroad - 05 Jan 2025 at 5:59pm
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