The $100 challenge.....

Can't see the point in getting to complicated on trigger for this gun.
A simple stop for trigger seems enough for me.
Another idea I had, but won't be doing due to lack of tools, was to bore a small hole into the breech block, to the bottom left or right of the barrel.
Thread the top so a small cap with center drilled out could be screwed over the top of a spring and ball bearing put into the hole, and a shallow receiving hole on other side for the bearing to lock into.
Barrel lock. In theory would hold barrel in same place when closed.

Kiwi, your engineering skills are impressive! Looks super nice. Well done

kruzaroad wrote:   I'm contemplating putting a small angled hole in the front trigger gaurd and threading it (by using the screw I will put in) to make a stop for trigger reseting to far forward. (inspired by trigger adjustment shown previously but taking all the complicated work out of it.) Remember it's about tightening the groups not engineering the parts in end.

You and me both with the "wow OK that's a little more involved than I'll be doing" pete.
But on the plus side doesn't seem that all the work is giving any significant gains... Yet.
When I pulled the piston out the chamber had way to much oil in it. Enough to pool, so that is the most likely cause of the smoke.
Graphite grease seems to be the what is most commonly recommended for piston chamber. Crossman make cylinder lube for springers (not to be confused with pelgun oil used for pumpers and CO2, which I did first off) handy stuff to have for any of your springers.
As for all the stuff going on with it all, if you can take the movement out of your barrel, get your piston running smooth and strait, have your seals sealing good your still way in the running for tighten your groups. Pellet choice will prob aid it alot as well.
The trigger being lightened will help heaps too. I'm contemplating putting a small angled hole in the front trigger gaurd and threading it (by using the screw I will put in) to make a stop for trigger reseting to far forward. (inspired by trigger adjustment shown previously but taking all the complicated work out of it.)
Remember it's about tightening the groups not engineering the parts in end.

Mine was very smokey and when I pulled it down it had been lubricated with what appeared to be used engine oil, it was very dark brown in colour.  I'll leave it to someone more knowledgeable to comment on the use of silicon grease.