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Smith & Wesson 78G restore project

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    Posted: 19 Mar 2021 at 6:45am
Had a few minutes spare and got the pistol back together.
Its not perfect, has a couple of marks already, but its much tidier than it was.

Its shooting around 380fps with H&N FTT, which sounds about right, so the hammer and the trigger replacement are functioning. The safety isnt working properly, must be something to do with the hammer / trigger upgrade, but one shouldnt rely on a mechanical safety over proper discipline..

I had a mate cut a vinyl graphic for a hard case; the same logo / branding / "Co2 Air Pistol" that appeared on their original box, in S&W Blue.

 

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dvlnme Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Feb 2021 at 2:33am
Clap thats looking great mate,factory finish was never that good on these,you are rebuilding a shooter not trying to restore it to origional anyway just guna be a real nice shooter now and one you can enjoy and be proud of and that in the end is what matters.
 cheers mike
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote J-S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Jan 2021 at 10:48am
Originally posted by dvlnme dvlnme wrote:

just shows you how versitile a barby is eh.
 cheers mike


Needs a good scrub though - looks like i used it as a spray booth for the black.... LOL
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dvlnme Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Jan 2021 at 9:19am
just shows you how versitile a barby is eh.
 cheers mike
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote J-S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Jan 2021 at 9:22am
Had a spare couple of hours and got the Matt black spray on. It went on ok, with a couple of smudges that would be mostly hidden under the grips. Sprayed and hung until just touch dry, then hung outside in the sun for an hour before barbecuing... heated at around 100-120 degrees for about 40 minutes then cooled under the hood.



The finish feels good - it doesn’t have that plastic feel spray paints can have and no tacky feeling. Slightly more sheen than original finish but pretty close and if nothing else will have a little more character than the original.

The top section had a nice even finish.. until it dropped from hanging! I caught it so no damage, but the finish needed to be stripped AGAIN, and is now ready to painted again when I have a spare minute.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dvlnme Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Jan 2021 at 3:19am
know what you mean about the wife and the oven been there done that and still got the scars because got caught by she who must be obeyed when comes to the stove.had excellent results from stove and exhaust paints they all come out with nice flat finish after heating,wont take long for the paint smell to go away on the barbi steaks eh!!.
 cheers mike
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote J-S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Jan 2021 at 5:05am
This matt paint is a primer / paint apparently suitable for directly coating... (according to their marketing claims...) but I will try curing it in the hooded BBQ at around 100C. The wife may not be too please with spray paint fumed in the oven.. 

The good thing about these is that there are not many parts that move against other parts so there shouldn't be a lot of friction wear on the paint.  I did consider the high temp engine paints / stove paints, but i wasnt sure about the finish; this one was  priced in between the standard sprays and those specialist ones and I think it should do fine.. if not I can always strip it a third time!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dvlnme Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Jan 2021 at 4:21am
best wearing paints are those you can bake on they dont chip etc like normal spray paint and wear better,i have used wood stove paint before,that bakes on at low temps so have preheated gun parts painted them and put in home oven at pout 100d /c for good results,these are usually flat finishs so do work well and look good/worth a try cheers mike
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote J-S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Jan 2021 at 5:14pm
Cheers, yes it certainly won’t be original.
There is something charming about the original flawed finish though, so I went and got a Matt spray to test..
it may be closer to the original finish based on the small test piece. Not so much sheen.

So back to stripping! The spray comes off easier than the factory finish so it won’t take much to strip back to metal and try again!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dvlnme Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Jan 2021 at 1:13am
i agree with Ron the origional finish on these guns was never that good in the several examples i have owned over the years,rebuilding and refinishing guns is bit like restoring cars,there is a big difference btween restoring something to factory standard or a concours build,the facts are a gun or car can only be origional once,so any rebuild changes that origionality personally i would go with the finish you like best and leave it at that,its no longer a collector piece,because its no longer in origional condition,its now a very nice shooter so enjoy it for what it now is,and its value is that it is a fully rebuilt and nice shooter.awsume job by the way.
 cheers mike
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote J-S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Jan 2021 at 3:22am
With everything stripped of the paint, and given a good acetone bath / wipe down, I have started spraying the parts with satin black. The finish is slightly glossier than the factory finish, but I think matt would be too flat.. the factory finish must be somewhere in between and the satin will show less blemishes than the matt would..
speaking to Ron he said it’s easy to tell refinished S&W pistols as the finish is usually too good! You can see from the original in the pic that the finish is not perfect - designed as a functional tool rather than a show piece..

Question, should I proceed and be happy with the satin, or should I strip again(!) and try a matt black to see if it is closer to the original?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote J-S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jan 2021 at 3:02pm
Had a few moments to strip the 78g down. A pretty simple pistol so that’s a good start.
I tested a little Citristrip on the top section which proved to remove the spray paint pretty easily.

You can see the top section was sanded by a previous owner before spray painting. Surprising as the spray paint job was so terrible. Luckily the writing and S&W logo haven’t been dulled - they look as sharp as the other origins finished pistols I have on hand.

This will still need some work on paint removal, a gentle surface buff and a clean with acetone before a couple of light coats of satin black.



Edited by J-S - 05 Jan 2021 at 3:03pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote J-S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Dec 2020 at 4:15am
Originally posted by dvlnme dvlnme wrote:

damage like that is a classic case of someone not knowing what they are doing and totally stuffing something up in the process.the old storey eh!! if something not broken,you keep fixing it til it is broken ha ha,now you really do have something that needs fixing eh!!pity they dont know how to fix what they have broken trying to fix it before it was broke,worlds full idiots who consider themselves experts coz they seen it on utube and became instant experts on the subject.
 cheers mike


Indeed!
With these, if you dont know about the colar inside the hammer spring area and try pull the top off, this happens..
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dvlnme Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Dec 2020 at 2:25am
damage like that is a classic case of someone not knowing what they are doing and totally stuffing something up in the process.the old storey eh!! if something not broken,you keep fixing it til it is broken ha ha,now you really do have something that needs fixing eh!!pity they dont know how to fix what they have broken trying to fix it before it was broke,worlds full idiots who consider themselves experts coz they seen it on utube and became instant experts on the subject.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote J-S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Dec 2020 at 7:31am
Originally posted by dvlnme dvlnme wrote:

you could possibly vee out the crack and fill it with jb weld then flush it off clean out lettering again with dremel tool etc,that would disappear when painted,wont really be any stress on that area when assembled and being used.
 cheers mike


Great idea.. Though im keen to keep it original paint finish as it is quite good condition. I may do that on the inside though to get a good amount of JB Weld in there.

The outside is not too noticable - neither myself or Ron saw it until i gave it a good inspection at home and it caught the light. Ron did offer a refund, but I decided to keep it anyway as I dont think it would be a problem - as you say no stress on the area.
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