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Gamo trigger guard |
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xyon
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Joined: 21 Dec 2016 Location: Canterbury Status: Offline Posts: 135 |
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Topic: Gamo trigger guardPosted: 25 May 2017 at 8:46am |
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I'm refinishing the sock on an old hunter 440, the trigger guard is missing so I'm looking for a replacement. I think the Crosman quest would have the same sized one.
I can get one shipped from the uk for 10 quid, but I thought I would ask here first. ![]() And the guard I need. ![]() |
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My favourites springer - Diana 52 PCP - FX Wildcat III |
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nunga
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Joined: 09 Mar 2013 Location: Pukekohe Status: Offline Posts: 1081 |
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Posted: 25 May 2017 at 8:56am |
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Might have one of those...let me have a look and ill get back to you
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2nd place HP springer - WFTF World Championships 2014
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J-S
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Joined: 20 Oct 2014 Location: Auckland Status: Offline Posts: 484 |
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Posted: 26 May 2017 at 9:54am |
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I took my 440 to Youngs a couple of weeks ago for a spring and it came
back with a new trigger guard because my one was broken (obviously common!) So he must have them in stock..
Out of interest, have you done any internal work on yours? |
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xyon
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Joined: 21 Dec 2016 Location: Canterbury Status: Offline Posts: 135 |
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Posted: 26 May 2017 at 3:34pm |
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Hmm, I thought about ringing Youngs, but in a fit of madness I decided to make my own. This is the result of several hours work attacking some 3mm Al sheet with a hacksaw, file and drill. I say mad, since as well as the time, I expect the price of some decent paint is going to be about the same as buying a new one
![]() I just got the hunter, so my plan is to test it for accuracy first before putting a lot of time into it. If its good, I will give it a trigger job, de-burr, polish, new seal and maybe convert to gas spring. The barrel also needs re-bluing. If not I may put the stock on my Crosman crusher, which seems to shoot quite nicely.
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My favourites springer - Diana 52 PCP - FX Wildcat III |
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J-S
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Posted: 27 May 2017 at 3:01am |
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Looks good, perhaps a nice polish would bring it up nicely rather than paint - add a bit of bling and show its a little different from the standard plastic jobby.
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xyon
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Joined: 21 Dec 2016 Location: Canterbury Status: Offline Posts: 135 |
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Posted: 27 May 2017 at 3:09am |
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Thanks, have you done any work on your hunter 440?
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My favourites springer - Diana 52 PCP - FX Wildcat III |
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J-S
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Posted: 27 May 2017 at 3:16am |
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No I haven't, it was a hand me down that I have never really used. I got it serviced not long ago and it shoots 2-3" groups so doesn't get a lot of attention along side the TX200 or FWB!
Its twangy, harsh and with a terrible trigger, but they are from a time before Gamo started pumping out 25 models each year and seems to have a better build quality. I think as you say, open it up and give it a good polish etc will help. I chronied it years ago and it was doing 17-18fpe, so perhaps collapsing a coil or two and bringing it down to 15-16fpe would help the feel of it and keep it with enough power to hunt with.. |
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Novagun
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Joined: 14 Dec 2016 Location: Wellington Status: Offline Posts: 62 |
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Posted: 01 Jun 2017 at 6:44am |
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That trigger guard is not plastic out a packet from China. Just plain good. Is the curved bit held to the plate by bent tabs?
I found some aluminium solder that engineers might know about but DIY may not;quite expensive from Tradezone and you need a torch to get everything hot. Butane torch is hot enough. I think aluminium melts at 1200 degrees C and the solder at about 650. I was surprised how strong the aluminium solder is. Much stronger than lead tin solder and of course that is no good for aluminium. The solder would not be as good aluminium welding but you need special gear and special skill for that.
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xyon
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Joined: 21 Dec 2016 Location: Canterbury Status: Offline Posts: 135 |
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Posted: 01 Jun 2017 at 10:17am |
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The tabs are TIG welded from the back, because my Aluminium TIG skills are not very special, it's a bit rougher looking
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My favourites springer - Diana 52 PCP - FX Wildcat III |
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Flub
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Joined: 24 Dec 2016 Location: Matamata Status: Offline Posts: 33 |
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Posted: 01 Jun 2017 at 5:33pm |
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You can also get silver solder wire that has a flux core and can be used on aluminium with a large soldering iron. You also need some oil and some flux paste. You put oil on the surfaces that you want to join and abrade them through the oil with something sharp. The oil prevents oxidation. You then drip melted flux onto the surface. This displaces the oil so you now have flux coated, oxide free, aluminium that can be soldered with the silver solder, which I think Jaycar stock.
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Novagun
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Posted: 02 Jun 2017 at 3:35am |
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Now there is a tip and less heat needed.
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nunga
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Joined: 09 Mar 2013 Location: Pukekohe Status: Offline Posts: 1081 |
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Posted: 02 Jun 2017 at 5:22am |
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Oh by the way i did not have a trigger guard. If you no longer need it might be a good idea for me to move this topic over to the technical section as there seems to be a lot of good information here.
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2nd place HP springer - WFTF World Championships 2014
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xyon
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Joined: 21 Dec 2016 Location: Canterbury Status: Offline Posts: 135 |
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Posted: 02 Jun 2017 at 6:33am |
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Interesting , I had not heard of the solder, but I had heard of the Al brazing rod, but I didn't have any of that either.
One of the problems with welding small parts is that Al melts at a lower temp than steel so you can't tell by the colour when it is close to melting temp. Being a very good conductor of heat the first you know is when almost the whole part turns suddenly into a slumped mess. Guess how I know ![]() Thanks for looking Nunga, but no, I don't really need another guard any more. |
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My favourites springer - Diana 52 PCP - FX Wildcat III |
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xyon
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Joined: 21 Dec 2016 Location: Canterbury Status: Offline Posts: 135 |
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Posted: 08 Jun 2017 at 3:26pm |
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With the crappy weather over the weekend I have done some more work on the Gamo Hunter. I put the stock back on and fired a couple of shots out the porch, only got 500 fps with jsb exact .177s - bugger.
So I took it apart. Seal stuffed. Put a new seal in. Now got 800 fps much better but not awesome. Breech seal looks ok, Hmm, I'll have to try a different spring or a gas ram. Then I noticed the barrel was not locking securely in place. Just waving the rifle around or a gentle tap on the barrel was enough to make the end of the barrel drop a few mm's. This will not do, I thought. Google is disturbingly silent on this topic. Oh no I'm going to have to think for myself like the old days. I can see 3 things that could cause this problem. 1. The latch spring is weak. 2. The latch faces have worn. 3. The barrel lock up in place has always been crappy. I decided that angle the latch faces meet (due I expect to 2 and 3 above) was wrong and made it too easy for the latch to pushed in. I think I will need drawings to explain, but I ended up modifying the angle of the spring latch in the breech and the shape of the fixed latch on the front of the compression chamber. Now it's sweet as, the barrel/breech stays put until you give it a firm slap to break it. |
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My favourites springer - Diana 52 PCP - FX Wildcat III |
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nunga
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Posted: 09 Jun 2017 at 5:01am |
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so what you are trying to describe is you made a new pin latch with different angles?
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2nd place HP springer - WFTF World Championships 2014
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